Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Sport, 130 ft (39 m)|
|FA:||Bill Ramsey 1999|
|Page Views:||5,055 total · 86/month|
|Shared By:||Shirtless Mike on Nov 23, 2015|
|Admins:||Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek|
Starting off the small boulder, pull one of the harder moves on the route a ~V5 boulder problem on small holds. Continue up the steep wall on 5.11 jugs to a tricky sloping leftwards traverse section to gain the resting ledge. It is about mid 5.12 to here. After figuring out the sit down rest and forcing yourself to wait until fully recovered, attack the steep headwall, moving past a difficult section passing the 3rd bolt (on the headwall). A quick shake is obtained at the 6th bolt (on the headwall),with more difficult moves to gain the "beach" and the 7th bolt. Get a good shake and pull difficult moves to get off the "beach". Another shake allows some more recovery before tackling the steep mid 5.12 finishing headwall above. The last bolt is generally skipped on redpoint attempts resulting in some huge whips as climbers gun for the jugs below the chains.
Some sneaky beta allows a few additional rests, and some of the cruxes can be dumbed down with kneepads.