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Routes in Buckeye Buttress

Ball Scratcher S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buff the Wood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Chronic, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cream Machine, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Golden Touch S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Heart Shaped Box S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Leftomaniac S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One-Eyed Willy Up the Back S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Overdrive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reacharound, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rug Muncher S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Trad Sucker S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Twisted S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Jeff Moll - 1994
Page Views: 2,014 total, 18/month
Shared By: Paul Corsaro on Sep 23, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Private Property Details

Description

Amazing bouldery route. Boulder through edges and fingerlocks to a crack. Take a quick rest at the crack and moveout to some crimps. Make a big deadpoint to a crimp rail, follwed by another huge move to a monster jug. Shake out and climb through some moderate climbing to a boulder problem on pockets. Cruise to the anchors.

Location

On the Buckeye Buttress section of the Lode. Far left side. Obvious fingercrack about 15 feet up.

Protection

5 Bolts plus anchors

Photos

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Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Awesome route with solid stone, great movement and very fun crux moves. Every bit of 5 star.... Mar 22, 2015
This climb is great! Off the ground to the second bolt puts you throuugh some good crimping to a not so good shake for the first crux . Long reaches to small crimps to set up for a big throw to the first rest . The jugs to the next crux flow well into a good shared rest with stain( if your pumped clip from here). The next crux can be done more ways than one but all seemed just as hard. End on jugs to the chains.
Really fun and not that pumpy ( you get a lot back in the rests)
Personal opinion harder then stain . Nov 9, 2012