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Cannon Cliff  


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,100'
Lat, Long: 44.159, -71.6847 Map
Page Views: 197,642. Good page? (1 like)   
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 23, 2011

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Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu
Chance of Rain
75° | 52°
Chance of Rain
70° | 48°
Partly Cloudy
68° | 45°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
68° | 50°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
75° | 48°

This is the rough estimate of the areas i split ca...

Description 

Cannon Cliff is the tallest and most respected cliff in New England. The climbs are long, the weather is bad, and the rock is exfoliating. Every climber who heads up to do a route on Cannon understands that the undertaking is a considerable one.

This is not to say that the routes are bad, however. The popular routes ascend pristine granite and can be over ten pitches long. Just don't stray from your chosen route, as you may find yourself in one of Cannon's many heavily eroded vertical gullies.

Rockfall is a common occurrence on the cliff. The Old Man, a natural outline of a face in the rock and New Hampshire's famous state symbol, fell off the cliff a few years back. An entire pitch, the Whaleback Crack, parted from the face in the 1990's and created a swath of fresh talus at the base.

Located in Franconia Notch, the cliff faces east and many a climber has been caught unawares by fast-moving storms coming from the west. Plus, a long talus approach leads to the base and can be heinous if the talus is wet or snow covered.

Do not let the above description dissuade you. Cannon offers the chance for the experienced climber to find alpine serenity on a remote, unforgiving, and challenging wall


Getting There 

All roads lead to Interstate 93 and I-93 runs through Franconia Notch. The big cliff is on the west side of the road. You can't possibly miss it.

The parking area is on the north end of the cliff. It is only possible to access the lot from the southbound side of 93. If you are coming from the south, head past the lot and get off on the next exit (the Tramway exit). From here, reverse directions and head south into the lot.


Winter climbs 

For descriptions of Cannon's excellent winter climbs, including the super-classic Black Dike, see Cannon Ice Climbs.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cannon Cliff :
Weissners Dike   5.5     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 650 feet, Grade II   5. Slabs
Lakeview   5.6     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, Grade III   5. Slabs
Whitney Gilman Ridge   5.7     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade II   1. Whitney-Gilman Area
Lightning Crack    5.7     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 150 feet   2. Duet Area etc
Duet   5.7     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 260 feet, Grade II   2. Duet Area etc
Sam's Swan Song   5.7 PG13     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III   2. Duet Area etc
Sinister Satisfaction    5.8     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 150 feet   2. Duet Area etc
Slow and Easy   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80 feet   2. Duet Area etc
Consolation Prize   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 900 feet   5. Slabs
Ambrosia   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 90 feet   1. Whitney-Gilman Area
Moby Grape   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III   4. Moby Grape Area
Falling Aspirations   5.9- PG13     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III   5. Slabs
Union Jack   5.9     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III   4. Moby Grape Area
Raven Crack   5.9     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II   2. Duet Area etc
Vertigo   5.9 A0 R     Trad, Aid, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III   4. Moby Grape Area
Sticky Fingers   5.10     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 100 feet   2. Duet Area etc
VMC Direct Direct   5.10+     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 800 feet, Grade IV   3. Big Wall
Duet Direct   5.10+     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200 feet   2. Duet Area etc
Condescender   5.11a R     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300 feet   5. Slabs
Labyrinth Wall Direct   5.11     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 800 feet, Grade V   3. Big Wall
Browse More Classics in Cannon Cliff

Featured Route For Cannon Cliff
The normal (5.7) route is the green line... follow the red short cuts for a more direct and slightly harder route (5.8 and 5.9 variations)... <br />large file, zoom in for detail...

Whitney Gilman Ridge 5.7  NH : Cannon Cliff : 1. Whitney-Gilman Area
Whitney Gilman climbs the prominent ridge on the left side of Cannon. Interesting climbing, great belay ledges and incredible exposure make this climb a classic one. Edging up the well defined arete is an experience unique to New Hampshire climbing. There is no 5.7 more exposed than the WG. The approach is long. Expect about one hour of hiking. Walk down along the bike trail until you reach a well marked trail heading into the woods. Follow this trail uphill and through the interminable talus fi...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH


Photos of Cannon Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
a full-moon lit canon.

a full-moon lit canon.

Cannon Mountain (Photo: Brian Aitken)

Cannon Mountain (Photo: Brian Aitken)

a shot from the adjecent peak of hay stack

a shot from the adjecent peak of hay stack

Cannon Cliff from Mount Lafayette. The stark Whitney Gilman Ridge can be seen on the left side.

Cannon Cliff from Mount Lafayette. The stark Whitn...

Cannon, and its talus field, from afar.

Cannon, and its talus field, from afar.

The central wall of Cannon

The central wall of Cannon

This is the view looking north from high up on the Whitney-Gilman ridge... pretty.... Eagle cliff is in the back ground....

This is the view looking north from high up on the...

looking south from the top of Slow and Easy at the Whitney-Gilman ridge...

looking south from the top of Slow and Easy at the...

cannon

cannon

The "new" man on the mountain... Cromagnum Man? (Photo: Brian Aitken)

The "new" man on the mountain... Cromagnum Man? (P...

Long exposure at night, 2001.

Long exposure at night, 2001.

Whitney Gilman with the moon over top. A beautiful day in September.

Whitney Gilman with the moon over top. A beautiful...

lee looking up at the black dike in fat conditions

lee looking up at the black dike in fat conditions...

summer morning canon

summer morning canon

canon in the summer

canon in the summer

Nothing in NH beats Cannon exposure... This is mike above the roof pitch on Moby Grape...

Nothing in NH beats Cannon exposure... This is mik...

P.Ross on the bivy ledge during first ascent of Labyrinth Wall July 1971

P.Ross on the bivy ledge during first ascent of La...

First ascent of The Ghost. July 1971

First ascent of The Ghost. July 1971

Mike Peloquin and John Bragg below Canon preparing for the first ascent of The Ghost and Vertigo. 1971. Photo Paul Ross

Mike Peloquin and John Bragg below Canon preparing...

The first traverse of Canon .The Magical Mystery Tour AUG 1973 .Paul Ross on the rap pendulum to reach the flake on the Labyrinth wall. The first travese took Ross and Barber a few minutes under 6 hours.The lenth of the traverse is about 6000'

The first traverse of Canon .The Magical Mystery T...

me and jakob peering over the drop in to the black dike...

me and jakob peering over the drop in to the black...

Grade V

Grade V

What a beautiful cliff!

What a beautiful cliff!

Some of the remains of the effort to sustain the Old Man.

Some of the remains of the effort to sustain the O...

This is the waterway that was built to divert water away from the Old Man of the Mountain... apparently Tim thought he was transported to Water Country.

This is the waterway that was built to divert wate...

Looking up from the top of Boise Rock. The Whitney-Gilman Ridge is the obvious fin in the opening of the trees.   <br /> <br />Photo by Richard Wallace.

Looking up from the top of Boise Rock. The Whitney...

This is a topo of the slabs I've been working on. As much has changed since the Old Man indecent, any additional beta would be appreciated.

BETA PHOTO: This is a topo of the slabs I've been working on. ...

Cannon Cliff from Boise Rock. Franconia, NH. Jan 31, 2012. Composite of 13 images. <a href='http://www.bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com</a>

Cannon Cliff from Boise Rock. Franconia, NH. Jan 3...

From Campton "Up on the hill"

From Campton "Up on the hill"

approaching Cannon

approaching Cannon

PINK

PINK


Comments on Cannon Cliff Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Oct 12, 2007

Check out the article in Alpinist vol. 21

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Feb 15, 2009

Basilisk has scanned an old guidebook for Cannon. You can download it here.

By Mike McLean
Oct 13, 2011

I was told there was a way to descend from the bottom of the cliff face by going to the right of Lakeview and following a trail.

Last Sunday, I was up at Lakeview at about 10AM and it was jam packed and backed up by a slooooooooooow group; looked at Weisner Dike and there was a sllllloooooow group there as well.

Considering there was bound to be a huge clusterf*ck at the last pitch, I figured I'd just walk back down and go somewhere else; there is something that looks like a trail for a few hundred feet ... then nothing. I ended up bushwhacking straight down for 95% of the descent and ended up directly on the left side of the parking.

Anyway; word to the wise: That trail is somewhat overgrown.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 24, 2011

Im in the middle of redoing Cannon Cliff's organization. I just have to move the photos now. As you look around let me know if any routes are out of place. The area descriptions are just rough drafts so far.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Oct 24, 2011

I was about to add lab Wall- it's been quite a while and my meager notes are somewhat sketchy. Anyone else ??? It's such a great,demanding climb.