Callipigeanous Crack 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, TR |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | First Lead: Jim Erickson |
| Submitted By: | Jay Knower on Oct 30, 2002 |
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Description Callipigeanous is the appealing looking crack around the corner from Peter's Project. Unfortunately, the finger crack that looks like it swallows both protection and fingers ends at a ledge halfway up. From this ledge, make an exposed and dramatic step right onto the corner. Follow this corner (bad pro but 5.4ish climbing) to the top. If you can stomach the upper, somewhat runout part, Callipigeanous makes a great lead, perhaps one of the best at Devil's Lake. The lower moves are powerful yet oddly delicate while the upper section holds your interest despite the relatively easy climbing.
Protection Small--TCUs and nuts
Steve Z onsighting Callipigeanous. April 09.
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Ron eyeing it up...
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In the Crux
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Entering the runout second half
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Keller sending Callipigeanous Crack onsight.
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| Comments on Callipigeanous Crack |
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By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Nov 6, 2002
| first lead: Jim Ericksonfirst lead of Callipigeanous Direct: Pete Cleveland |
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 25, 2005
| callipigeanous direct is also a worthy lead 5.10+ ,use to be some old pins ya could back up with wires. at the ledge(where the huge loose block use to reside before dlfa trundle)go straight up.what the heck does callipigeanous mean???? |
By Pete Arndt
Mar 26, 2005
| I believe the word callipigeanous means "shapely buttocks".Translation: Nice Ass!!! |
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Mar 11, 2010
rating: 5.10a PG13
| I think given the runout upper section this deserves a PG13, at least. Even though the climbing difficulties are over a fall from most places on the upper section wouldn't be safe... |
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Mar 11, 2010
rating: 5.10a
| I've felt that way on a number of DL climbs James, business at the start, then runout 5.5-5.7 climbing at the top. |
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jul 10, 2012
rating: 5.10a
| This is a must do lead! Great gear, and solid moves to the ledge. The run-out up top is heady, but easy, and you can find decent gear to protect it. |
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