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Routes in Many Pines Buttress

Algae T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Anemia T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Anemic Ladder T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Asleep in a Fuk-nes Dream TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Rib T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Broken Ladder TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Callipigeanous Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Callipigeanous Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Double Clutch (AKA Chickens Don't Fly) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Flatus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jamboree T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kamikaze T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Man and Superman T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Michael's Project T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Trump T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ostentation T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ottobahn T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Peter's Project T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peter's Project Right Side T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sewing Machine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Superman T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
V8 T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: Errol Morris
Page Views: 229 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Oct 27, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Peter's Project Right side is found just to the right of Peter's Project. Start out by looking for a curved flake to grab onto with the fingers of both hands. Set your feet on the wall about two feet off the deck, then reach up with your right hand to a sidepull hold. Move your feet higher, then reach up with your left hand to a pocket, followed by your right hand grabbing a sharp pocket. Mix in some fancy footwork and you're on your way.

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
The gear is small but there. Tiny shallow cam right off the bat that maybe isn't really high enough to really make any difference. You can get cams and small tri-cams in at the horizontal over on the right at about the 20-25 ft mark. You can get side gear (wired nut) in the crack that leads off to the right. That crack maybe off route if you are behold'n to the guidebook description. Above the steep part where the route transitions to more slabby rock you get more really small wires and cams as well as Ballnuts in the horizontals. It's a fun lead if you can work out the best pro options but it's all really small. Jul 9, 2015
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
 
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
 
How is the gear on this? From the ground it didn't look like much to protect that start. Jul 8, 2015
Where does the route go after the tree in the middle? To the left of the tree and back onto PP's right-hand crack? or to the right of the tree and straight up? Tried the route on top rope this weekend and didn't get very far, but when I go back would be good to know which side is best to build my anchor. Aug 7, 2011
Peter Arndt
  5.9+
Peter Arndt  
  5.9+
Terry Kieck once told me the Peter's Right Side was harder for taller people. Sep 22, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.9
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.9
Fun climb. The beginning is great. If only the rest of the route was. After you get to the tree in the middle, the rest is very contrived. Sep 22, 2008
Tom Anderson-Brown
Madison, WI
  5.9+
Tom Anderson-Brown   Madison, WI
  5.9+
I had a chance to climb this route again over the weekend, and unlike before, I made a successful attempt. The route is very crimpy. Some of the moves remind me of Stretcher. Seems similar in difficulty too, maybe a bit harder even. PP Right Side was my favorite route of the day. Highly recommended. Jun 21, 2005
Tom Anderson-Brown
Madison, WI
  5.9+
Tom Anderson-Brown   Madison, WI
  5.9+
Steve,Thanks for the info on Errol's ascent. I was lucky enough to climb this on TR with Errol as my belayer last Saturday. He's a very nice guy. Thanks for the pointers Errol! Oct 1, 2002
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
first lead by Errol Morris. Sep 30, 2002