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Routes in 09: Many Pines Buttress

Algae T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Anemia T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Anemic Ladder T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Asleep in a Fuk-nes Dream TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Rib T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Broken Ladder TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Callipigeanous Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Callipigeanous Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Double Clutch (AKA Chickens Don't Fly) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Flatus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jamboree T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kamikaze T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Man and Superman T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Michael's Project T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
No Trump T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ostentation T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ottobahn T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Peter's Project T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peter's Project Right Side T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sewing Machine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Superman T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
V8 T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: ????
Page Views: 159 total · 2/month
Shared By: Burton Lindquist on Jul 3, 2012
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

A squeeze job that is quite distinct and fun between routes "Jamboree" to the left and "Sewing Machine" to the right. The strict start (according to Mr Altay) is to pull V2 bolder problem at the start (On Ramp) onto ledge 12 feet up "Sewing Machine" route. Off the ledge pull slight sharp rib is if a layback then face holds to the top. Use the nice side pull slots with the left hand that rim upwards the right margin of the "Jamboree" route.

Location

Route 105 (unamed) page 121 in "Climber's Guide to Devil's Lake" Edition 3. It has been labeled "Ottobahn" in reference to Erol Altay's driving habits. Add this to the list of good 5.9s at the DL that can be protected pretty well on lead.

Protection

Small wires and smallest to large finger sized cams.

Photos

Nice Job Burt. However, the correct name is Ottobahn, in reference to my Turkish backround. This would have been a first installment in what my wife calls Erol's C.L.A.P. These are routes that don't exist in the guidebooks, are not presently claimed by anyone as having been done, and have in all certainty been done back in the day. Sep 29, 2012
Tony Brengosz
  5.9+ PG13
Tony Brengosz  
  5.9+ PG13
This is a pretty good route, and I wouldn't even call it a squeeze job. Don't let it's location back in the corner keep you from getting on it. Oct 2, 2012
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
 
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
 
"A squeeze job that is quite distinct and fun"... I did try to highlight the legit and distinct position of moves of this climb. I think I meant to use that term more within the context of the MP.com database.... look .. there is a climb that indeed exists between these other two established routes. Oct 3, 2012
If you want a squeeze, do the right side of the wall without using the right crack. With the boulder start that goes at 11a. Call it "Fast Lane". Oct 8, 2012
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Although it may look contrived from the ground, once you pull into the first move it feels pretty natural - you are not tempted to wander off route! I really enjoyed this one. Oct 9, 2017

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