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Ottobahn

5.9+ PG13, Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 6 votes
FA: ????
Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 04 - E… > 09: Many Pines Buttress

Description

A squeeze job that is quite distinct and fun between routes "Jamboree" to the left and "Sewing Machine" to the right. The strict start (according to Mr Altay) is to pull V2 bolder problem at the start (On Ramp) onto ledge 12 feet up "Sewing Machine" route. Off the ledge pull slight sharp rib is if a layback then face holds to the top. Use the nice side pull slots with the left hand that rim upwards the right margin of the "Jamboree" route.

Location

Route 105 (unamed) page 121 in "Climber's Guide to Devil's Lake" Edition 3. It has been labeled "Ottobahn" in reference to Erol Altay's driving habits. Add this to the list of good 5.9s at the DL that can be protected pretty well on lead.

Protection

Small wires and smallest to large finger sized cams.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

"The Ottobahn" route line.  Photo borrowed from user S.P.L.T.Image from "Jamboree" entry and modified.
[Hide Photo] "The Ottobahn" route line. Photo borrowed from user S.P.L.T.Image from "Jamboree" entry and modified.
Doug TR'n Ottobahn 10-08-17.
[Hide Photo] Doug TR'n Ottobahn 10-08-17.
routes right of V8 tower
[Hide Photo] routes right of V8 tower
V8 tower area routes
[Hide Photo] V8 tower area routes

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Nice Job Burt. However, the correct name is Ottobahn, in reference to my Turkish backround. This would have been a first installment in what my wife calls Erol's C.L.A.P. These are routes that don't exist in the guidebooks, are not presently claimed by anyone as having been done, and have in all certainty been done back in the day. Sep 29, 2012
Tony Brengosz
  5.9+ PG13
[Hide Comment] This is a pretty good route, and I wouldn't even call it a squeeze job. Don't let it's location back in the corner keep you from getting on it. Oct 2, 2012
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] "A squeeze job that is quite distinct and fun"... I did try to highlight the legit and distinct position of moves of this climb. I think I meant to use that term more within the context of the MP.com database.... look .. there is a climb that indeed exists between these other two established routes. Oct 3, 2012
[Hide Comment] If you want a squeeze, do the right side of the wall without using the right crack. With the boulder start that goes at 11a. Call it "Fast Lane". Oct 8, 2012
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
[Hide Comment] Although it may look contrived from the ground, once you pull into the first move it feels pretty natural - you are not tempted to wander off route! I really enjoyed this one. Oct 9, 2017