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Routes in Many Pines Buttress

Algae T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Anemia T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Anemic Ladder T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Asleep in a Fuk-nes Dream TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Rib T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Broken Ladder TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Callipigeanous Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Callipigeanous Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Double Clutch (AKA Chickens Don't Fly) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Flatus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jamboree T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kamikaze T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Man and Superman T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Michael's Project T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Trump T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ostentation T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ottobahn T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Peter's Project T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peter's Project Right Side T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sewing Machine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Superman T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
V8 T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 133 total, 1/month
Shared By: Rob Riggleman on Sep 30, 2007
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Pretty fun arete just to the left of Double Clutch and Black Rib. The first half of the climb has a couple of thin sections broken up by good rests, then climb becomes more sustained as you get closer to the top. It's a fun climb for the grade.

Location

Arete left of Double Clutch.

Protection

TR. A lead would probably be exciting, but I'm sure it's been done.

Photos

Tradiban
  5.10d R
Tradiban  
  5.10d R
Thanks! Nope, not an on-sight, head point. It took two goes on TR to figure out the gear and to make sure I wasn't going to fall and then pulled the rope and sent!
I remember getting shut down on the right hand version a while ago so I didn't even try that way.
Eck, on-sighting anything this hard and up on tricky gear at DL would be a feat! Can't say I'm at that level yet.
On second thought, and reflecting upon the gear placements I'm going to have to bump this from PG-13 to R. Jun 12, 2009
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Nick:

Did you on-sight this lead? Another way to go if you did! Jun 12, 2009
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Nick:

Forgot to say. Way to go leading this "too" lately. I have been dreaming about doing the same but I have never explored the protection options. Jun 12, 2009
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Nick:

If you took the left hand exit then the crux was for sure at the top.
Right hand exit involves pulling up under large sharp angular undercling hold (off the ledges at 3/4 height), getting feet as high as possible next, and then reach out right to small positive square cut and eventually reaching through with left to nice divot (for gear)and another square cut just above. Finally you have to reposition feet on key holds in order to make desperate (for me) moves over the top.... I think the left hand finish is even harder... Jun 12, 2009
Tradiban
  5.10d R
Tradiban  
  5.10d R
Hmmm...I don't remember an undercling. Are you referring to a right hand exit? I followed the guidebooks suggestion of a left hand exit.
My last pro was a #1 Metolious Power Cam and a 3 lobes engaged #0 Metolious Master Cam. Both didn't seem all that solid and I was hoping not to take a fall on them. I'll post a another pic or two of the finish. Jun 12, 2009
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Nick. What gear did you get before or at the big undercling move? I am sure you found the nice gear slot before the exit moves? I don't see in the pics.. curious. Jun 11, 2009
Tradiban
  5.10d R
Tradiban  
  5.10d R
It would call this a reasonable lead with the proper gear (Yep, Ball-Nutz), the crux is definitely right at the top and the sun made the holds in the last seam pretty greasy to hold onto. Good moves all the way but hard to decipher at first. Jun 11, 2009
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Pretty darn hard 5.10d moves pulling through the top moves. Very strenuous and sequential moving up from the sharp angular undercling move and rightwards. The feet positions are pretty crucial in order to pull off these upper moves quickly and effeciently. I have the darndest time getting those moves correct. This climb is different then alot of DL routes in that the crux sits right at the top..... Oct 5, 2007