Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Many Pines Buttress

Algae T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Anemia T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Anemic Ladder T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Asleep in a Fuk-nes Dream TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Rib T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Broken Ladder TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Callipigeanous Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Callipigeanous Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Double Clutch (AKA Chickens Don't Fly) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Flatus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jamboree T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kamikaze T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Man and Superman T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Michael's Project T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Trump T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ostentation T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ottobahn T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Peter's Project T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peter's Project Right Side T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sewing Machine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Superman T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
V8 T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: TR: Pete Cleveland FFA: Sol Sepsenwol (AKA Mr. Poultry) 1987
Page Views: 115 total, 1/month
Shared By: mr. poultry on Feb 8, 2007
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a beautiful, wandering thin face climb between "Black Rib" and the corner, "Man and Superman" first TR'd by Pete Cleveland in the 60's. Double-rope helps. It has two rests, and lots of exciting, sustained climbing between. The protection doesn't show up for the first 25 feet, but there is a good pro from there on. The route starts with an extended RH layback up to some thin finger slots, moves right and up on small footholds to an obvious "ledge" about 10 ft up. It moves back left and across near the corner, where it's possible to drop in a big nut in a crack on "Man and Superman" nearby and rest (11a?R). The route moves straight up, then out right on thin handholds and footholds to a black edge near Black Rib (the 12 crux for me), where a crack takes RP's. Back left to a dyno to the big, RH rough incut (= clutch #1, crux). Traverse left and up the obvious ledges, to gear and rest. Overhanging finish moves up and right with to a wild high lieback, a swing out to a perfect slot in the finish crack which takes RP's, and a careful tippy-toe to the top. I don't know where the second clutch is.

Protection

1 large wired nut, RPs, #1 cam, double rope. No fixed gear.

Photos

Tony Brengosz
  5.12a R
Tony Brengosz  
  5.12a R
Does this start off the ground? If so, yikes. We started up and left near the base of Man and Superman, which avoids the heinously thin start from the ground. Other than that, this is a great route. A good mix of power and technique get you through the crux, then easier climbing up to a great finish bulge and top out slab. Sep 25, 2012