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Wisconsin
> Baraboo Range
> Devil's Lake
> E Bluff 04 - E…
> 09: Many Pines Buttress
Callipigeanous Crack
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 3 from 60
votes
Routes in 09: Many Pines Buttress
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Algae T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Anemia T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Anemic Ladder T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Asleep in a Fuk-nes Dream TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Black Rib T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Broken Ladder TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Callipigeanous Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Callipigeanous Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Double Clutch (AKA Chickens Don't Fly) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Flatus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jamboree T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Kamikaze T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Man and Superman T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Michael's Project T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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No Trump T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ostentation T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ottobahn T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Peter's Project T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Peter's Project Right Side T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sewing Machine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Superman T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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V8 T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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| Type: | Trad, TR |
| FA: | First Lead: Jim Erickson |
| Page Views: | 3,629 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Knower on Oct 29, 2002 |
| Admins: | Ian CB, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge |
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Description
Callipigeanous is the appealing looking crack around the corner from Peter's Project. Unfortunately, the finger crack that looks like it swallows both protection and fingers ends at a ledge halfway up. From this ledge, make an exposed and dramatic step right onto the corner. Follow this corner (bad pro but 5.4ish climbing) to the top. If you can stomach the upper, somewhat runout part, Callipigeanous makes a great lead, perhaps one of the best at Devil's Lake. The lower moves are powerful yet oddly delicate while the upper section holds your interest despite the relatively easy climbing.
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