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Routes in Many Pines Buttress

Algae T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Anemia T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Anemic Ladder T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Asleep in a Fuk-nes Dream TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Rib T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Broken Ladder TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Callipigeanous Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Callipigeanous Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Double Clutch (AKA Chickens Don't Fly) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Flatus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jamboree T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kamikaze T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Man and Superman T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Michael's Project T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Trump T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ostentation T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ottobahn T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Peter's Project T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peter's Project Right Side T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sewing Machine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Superman T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
V8 T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, TR
FA: First Lead: Jim Erickson
Page Views: 2,248 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 29, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Description

Callipigeanous is the appealing looking crack around the corner from Peter's Project. Unfortunately, the finger crack that looks like it swallows both protection and fingers ends at a ledge halfway up. From this ledge, make an exposed and dramatic step right onto the corner. Follow this corner (bad pro but 5.4ish climbing) to the top. If you can stomach the upper, somewhat runout part, Callipigeanous makes a great lead, perhaps one of the best at Devil's Lake. The lower moves are powerful yet oddly delicate while the upper section holds your interest despite the relatively easy climbing.

Protection

Small--TCUs and nuts
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.10a PG13
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.10a PG13
I agree with James that it should have a PG13. The gear is great through all the hard stuff but the 5.5 climbing to the top is a bit runout. There is enough gear to keep you off the ground the whole way but it still wouldn't be a nice fall.

If you're strong enough to lead the crux you will be perfectly fine on the rest so go do it! Jul 10, 2016
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.10a
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.10a
This is a must do lead! Great gear, and solid moves to the ledge. The run-out up top is heady, but easy, and you can find decent gear to protect it. Jul 10, 2012
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  5.10a
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  5.10a
I've felt that way on a number of DL climbs James, business at the start, then runout 5.5-5.7 climbing at the top. Mar 11, 2010
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.10a PG13
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.10a PG13
I think given the runout upper section this deserves a PG13, at least. Even though the climbing difficulties are over a fall from most places on the upper section wouldn't be safe... Mar 11, 2010
I believe the word callipigeanous means "shapely buttocks".Translation: Nice Ass!!! Mar 26, 2005
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
callipigeanous direct is also a worthy lead 5.10+ ,use to be some old pins ya could back up with wires. at the ledge(where the huge loose block use to reside before dlfa trundle)go straight up.what the heck does callipigeanous mean???? Mar 25, 2005
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
first lead: Jim Ericksonfirst lead of Callipigeanous Direct: Pete Cleveland Nov 6, 2002