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Routes in 09: Many Pines Buttress

Algae T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Anemia T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Anemic Ladder T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Asleep in a Fuk-nes Dream TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Rib T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Broken Ladder TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Callipigeanous Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Callipigeanous Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Double Clutch (AKA Chickens Don't Fly) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Flatus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jamboree T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kamikaze T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Man and Superman T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Michael's Project T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
No Trump T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ostentation T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ottobahn T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Peter's Project T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peter's Project Right Side T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sewing Machine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Superman T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
V8 T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
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Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 336 total · 3/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Jul 7, 2010
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

"An unusual climb (for Devil's Lake). One's legs tire out before one's arms, that is if both legs and arms do not give out together" (Smith & Zimmerman, 1970).

As a wide stemming/chimneying problem, this is harder if you are shorter. Tell yourself you are practicing for Devil's Tower.

Location

The stem box to the left of "Man & Superman."

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

Gokul
Madison, WIsconsin
  5.6 PG13
Gokul   Madison, WIsconsin  
  5.6 PG13
The gear is sparse in the middle section. Ball nuts - for the left seam - would be handy. Stoppers in this crack are only good for a downward pull, so maybe a cam lower down on the route will help with that. Apr 19, 2012
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.6
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.6
I wouldn't call it PG13 if you have Ball Nuts, but it's not a 5.6 for the 5.6 leader. Aug 23, 2015
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
I'm not sure I know how to characterize a "5.6 leader." Does this mean someone whose gymnastic limit is 5.6 and has never climbed before? Someone who regularly leads 5.6s, but not 5.7s?

"Sewing Machine" is not easy to protect, and it requires climbing skills not usually needed at the Lake. Those are two separate issues. Aug 25, 2015
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.6
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.6
I mean that it's not a good choice for a leader whose limit is leading 5.6. :-) Aug 26, 2015

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