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Routes in Many Pines Buttress

Algae T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Anemia T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Anemic Ladder T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Asleep in a Fuk-nes Dream TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Rib T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Broken Ladder TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Callipigeanous Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Callipigeanous Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Double Clutch (AKA Chickens Don't Fly) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Flatus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jamboree T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kamikaze T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Man and Superman T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Michael's Project T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Trump T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ostentation T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ottobahn T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Peter's Project T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peter's Project Right Side T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sewing Machine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Superman T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
V8 T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: First Lead: Pete Cleveland 1967
Page Views: 2,994 total, 19/month
Shared By: Steve Sangdahl on Mar 19, 2005
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Another classic DL lead. It is truly amazing what Pete was leading in 1967. Not sure how he placed the bolts? I placed a bolt next to the 2nd one in 1984 (old one was cracked). I did not remove old one for fear of scarring rock. Climb past the bolts and traverse left at roof on jugs, or send the direct out roofs to right and killer face above.

Protection

2 old bolts and a #2 frnd to back up top bolt.
Tradiban  
 
LOL! Clip the BOLTS?!?!!? Are you stoned? I guess you'd have to be to clip those things. No need for them anyway, plenty of gear on this one. Nov 18, 2009
Dmitriy Litvak
Pacifica, CA
5.11b R
Dmitriy Litvak   Pacifica, CA
5.11b R
R - if the bolts hold, X - otherwise
D - if you fall just before clipping the first bolt.
D = Deck

Note: this spray is under Flatus, not F3D Nov 18, 2009
Tradiban  
 
I wouldn't give this climb an "X". Tricky placements but they are at the right spots and I'm fairly sure they would hold. "R" rated I would say.
An on sight of a DL non-"R" or "X" 5.11 is pretty bold regardless. Nov 7, 2009
Dmitriy Litvak
Pacifica, CA
5.11b R
Dmitriy Litvak   Pacifica, CA
5.11b R
Surprised to see no X on this climb's rating. I guess it is obvious at the Lake. Till someone tries to onsight this cookie... Nov 2, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.11b
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.11b
sweet vid man. You made it look easy. Jul 31, 2009
Tradiban  
 
Here is a video of the lead: vimeo.com/36152945

(Edit: 2/3/11 I re-edited the video with music and commentary and re-posted. Enjoy!)

I had to cut it off at the rest because it was too long. Basically, after shaking out for 3 minutes I pull one more hard move to a good stance and then run it out up and left on the face.
Disclaimer: No bolts were clipped in the making of this movie and the "within reach" for pro rule was ignored. :) I did not place any pieces on "Michael's Project".
This probably won't interest you unless you've been on the climb. If you have been on it, I can assure you it's exciting! Jul 2, 2009
Tradiban  
 
Triple Direct came in at about 5.11d. I jacked up putting in the crux piece saying "Oh my god!" as I was pumping out trying to get the damn thing in, much to the delight of onlookers. Then, when pulling the second roof I blindly put my left hand too low in the crack, started to pull up and realized I wouldn't be able to pull to the jug from there, so I had to back down under the roof again and reposition the blind left hand. Fun stuff. Three stars for this version of Flatus. Apr 29, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.11b
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.11b
It is hard to imagine a chipped hold on a 5.11. I don't remember thinking anything about that specific hold. Many DL holds look chipped, actually, but I think that the quartzite just fractures that way.

Plus, Rhodes, an ellipsis is three dots(...), not six. Apr 27, 2009
Tradiban  
 
I never said I required correct spelling (but this was in fact the correct spelling just the wrong grammar). I DO require capitalization for inclusion in the human race.
Anyway......I remember thinking long ago that the hold looked chipped and then a few weeks ago a guy said it was, so I looked again and it indeed looks chipped. Is there a filthy cheater somewhere? Apr 27, 2009
Tradiban  
 
Got the gear together now but I pumped out at the end of the day. Next time.....
Does anyone know if the hold just around the first roof is chipped? Looks like it has. I've been avoiding it out of principle (Grammar corrected due to Huston's higher education). Apr 24, 2009
Tradiban  
 
Jason, I couldn't fish in anything in the first section, I'll try that Camalot beta, but I did fish in a SWEET #1 ball nut directly before the last crux on the direct. What did you get in around there? I didn't lead it yet but it's next on the list.
Agreed, the bolts are totally worthless these days. I think I could break the first one with my hands.
John, every week you have a new favorite! It just gets better and better doesn't it! Apr 14, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.11b
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.11b
This is one of the best climbs I've done at DL. Sep 22, 2008
David A Groth
Lacrosse
David A Groth   Lacrosse
Some off set cams work well by the second bolt as well if one is inclined to lead the route.

Dave Groth Jun 9, 2007
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
Dave Bohn,

I have to back Steve up here. I have absolutely no doubt that Flatus is F10b in your old guidebook, but the F system is no longer in use at Devil's Lake. Today we use the more popular Yosemite Decimal System, under which I assure you Flatus is at least 5.11b. I say at least, because if you are unfamiliar with exactly where Flatus goes you could easily find yourself on Flatus Direct, or Flatus 3D which are both significantly harder.

Rating this route as 5.10b here is quite possibly the worst form of sandbagging.

Cheers,
James Feb 25, 2007
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Flatus Triple Direct is one really nice 5.12a. Start by avoiding the traditional start to Flatus (you know- the funky rightward traverse at the start to be climbed before climbing directly up the bolt line) and climbing up into the meat of Flatus from directly below. Next climb the meat of Flatus route past the bolts. Just above the second bolt do not move left but climb straight up into the overhang and crack above. This is the part that is the best.... one has all ready negotiated all the pumpy devious climbing of the regular Flatus route (and direct start) and now one has to keep it together and keep enough power available to pull through the roof sequence. After that there is still hard and varied climbing to be had all the way to the top (staying out of upper Michael's Project route and to the left). This is a damn good route and I think I explained it here pretty good with out giving it away move by move..... I think this would be a hard route to flash because the moves are not obvious. Alot of fun is to be had here figuring out the sequences of this route in order to be able to have the strength to pull all the way to the top in one push... I guess the same could be said of most harder routes at Devil's Lake but this route just seems like an extra nice gem to me... Oct 18, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
There was some "Tripple Direct" variation of this thing that was harder. Maybe 5.12a? I don't recall exact details, but I remember that it was super fun and super hard. Can someone post those?

F10b maybe, but 5.10b? Well, if you want to get someone hurt, just keep it up. I have that old guide too, but I know it isn't YDS.
Flatus is not even close enough to that grade to be worth discussing why anyone would call it that. Oct 18, 2006
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
5.11a
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
5.11a
in the old red guide book i beleive Bagatelle was given F10c. most folks would agree that bagatelle is alot harder than flatus then just one "letter" grade. Oct 26, 2005
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
5.11a
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
5.11a
dave ,the rating in yer old "red" guide book is F10b. the "F" scale and the 5.11 scale are two completely different systems. having led flatus at least 20 times when i used to live in the midwest and having spent the last23 yrs. living and climbing in eldo ,i can assure you that you were climbing 5.11a way back when. also most dl climbers were quite good on a top-rope. when did pete c. tr bagatelle?1967? Oct 26, 2005
Wow, to think I was climbing DL 11b in '72 when my old Red Guidebook called it 10b !! Still one of the best thin face routes at the Lake !! Oct 4, 2005