Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: 1st TR: Michael Fain late 1950's
Page Views: 3,867 total · 20/month
Shared By: James Schroeder on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


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Description

Michael's Project is a stunning line that lies just around the prow of 09: Many Pines Buttress from its slightly more classic neighbor Peter's Project. Michael's, like Peter's, has a low crux that leads to easier, aesthetic climbing above. Unlike Peter's, a route that is adored by all, Michael's inspires strong opinions in both directions. Simply put, climbers either love Michael's or they hate it.

From the base, Michael's appears to be an appealing, straightforward crack system, that forms the line of weakness up an impressive wall. But then, from the base, it is easy to look past the start. Reviewing the comments below (or even the entire forum, Michael's Project: Timeless classic or horrific sandbag?, on the subject) will give the aspirant climber quite an education in the variety of opinions surrounding the quality of climbing to be found at the beginning of Michael's. Almost everyone who has climbed Michael's, will agree that the start is awkward, wide, polished and often slimy. The disagreement about Michael's concerns whether the climbing beyond the start properly compensates the climber for what he or she endured to get there.

Having groveled (and there really is no other word for it, except maybe "thrutched") up the difficult, off-width, inside-corner start, the climber can reach back-and-to-the-right, latch a jug just around the corner on the face left of Callipigeanous Crack (continuing straight up the inside corner would place the climber on Kamikaze - a dubious proposition indeed). After establishing on the right-hand face, the climber is richly-rewarded with the route he or she had expected in the beginning. Good holds on the face lead the climber up to where it is possible (and indeed, desirable) to head back into the corner and continue to the top on solid jams. The route finishes in a narrow hanging gully.

In the end, an ascent of Michael's Project (especially on the sharp end) is a rite of passage for all DL climbers. So, grab a rope, a rack, a willing partner and get out there to experience Michael's for yourself. Only then can you add your voice to the cacophony of firmly-held opinions. Love it or hate it, you'll never forget it.

Protection

C4's #.5-#4 and a set of nuts

Photos