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Routes in Many Pines Buttress

Algae T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Anemia T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Anemic Ladder T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Asleep in a Fuk-nes Dream TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Rib T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Broken Ladder TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Callipigeanous Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Callipigeanous Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Double Clutch (AKA Chickens Don't Fly) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Flatus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jamboree T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kamikaze T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Man and Superman T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Michael's Project T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Trump T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ostentation T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ottobahn T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Peter's Project T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peter's Project Right Side T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sewing Machine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Superman T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
V8 T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: DLFA
Page Views: 137 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Sep 1, 2009
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

"V8" starts out in an easy crack system then climbs up the face laybacking on smears.

Location

A separate tower from the main wall on Many Pines Buttress. Find it by finding "Michaels Project". Turn to your left 90', V8 is the face in front of you with the leaning tree in front of it.
TR can be set by climbing up the backside of the tower from the bottom or down climbing off the trail above and then up and around the east corner of the tower.

Protection

TR or good pro down low then runout to the top. Easier to go to the base of the route and climb up the left side of the tower to set the TR.

Photos

Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Some of the best 5.11 climbing in the whole park I think.
The upper sequence of moves is brilliant climbing that require spot on foot work and smearing technique. Rhoads has boned up and done these moves on lead with the pro way below the feet....very impresive... Jun 18, 2012
Tradiban  
 
Sharing the same start and going straight up the face just to the left of "V8" is "Pleasures of the Groin" 5.12b. No gear to speak of on that unfortunately :( Sep 1, 2009