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Routes in Many Pines Buttress

Algae T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Anemia T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Anemic Ladder T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Asleep in a Fuk-nes Dream TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Rib T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Broken Ladder TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Callipigeanous Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Callipigeanous Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Double Clutch (AKA Chickens Don't Fly) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Flatus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jamboree T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kamikaze T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Man and Superman T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Michael's Project T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Trump T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ostentation T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ottobahn T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Peter's Project T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peter's Project Right Side T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sewing Machine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Superman T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
V8 T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: First Lead: Pete Cleveland
Page Views: 1,127 total, 6/month
Shared By: James Schroeder on Mar 23, 2003
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Black Rib is an archetypal Devil's Lake face climb and considered one of the benchmarks for the 5.11a grade (at least according to the Swartling guides and tall climbers in possession of a healthy positive apex) in the park. Black Rib uses big reaches to link thin, yet positive edges on its namesake feature. That feature is a black-stained, arete-like protrusion that is imperceptibly less-than vertical. Black Rib is a beautiful and obvious line that will undoubtedly both please the eye and draw the attention of true connoisseurs.

Black Rib is archetypal to Devil's Lake in another, less-inspiring way; it has rules. For full-credit the aspiring ascensionist must start "in the pit" just downhill and right from the feature itself. Starting from the obvious block avoids several difficult (perhaps crux) moves and will certainly draw the ire of the route police. Route police notwithstanding, a partial-credit ascent starting from the block is still a worthy and rewarding consolation prize. Finish in the hanging chimney above the rib proper.

All-told, Black Rib is an excellent route, and should be on the to-do list of all climbers pursuing the 5.11 grade.

Location

Black Rib is the obvious water-streaked protrusion on the SW face of Many Pines Buttress about halfway between the obvious gash of Michael's Project and the cleft hiding Sewing Machine.

Protection

Despite having been led and soloed in the past, most climbers will opt for the security of a top rope given the combined lack of solid protection and insecure climbing on this route.

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James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.11a
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.11a
I concur with Jon. I believe it goes left into the "hanging chimney". Oct 2, 2017
jon jugenheimer
Madison, WI
jon jugenheimer   Madison, WI  
I believe it goes left at the top, no need to go right into the roofs. The crux of this line is in the bottom few meters, so no need to bump the grade more by heading right at the top for the points. That being said, if you are on TR, do it all. Oct 2, 2017
Where does this route officially finish? Does it follow the face and crack left of the ledge with the tree stump or cut right above the roof as for flatus? Sep 30, 2017
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
 
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
 
James, Black Fetus was another classic contrived squeeze job that makes perfect sense once you climb it.
It was conceived by the twisted mind of Dr. Cleveland during one of our infamous top roping sessions on that section of cliff. It might have involved consuming some alcoholic beverages. We were quite surprised when the Doctor suggested the name Black Fetus.
As I recall it goes straight up in between Black Rib and Flatus. Thin and complicated it fits right in with the nature of the other climbs there. Peace and F-nes Steve s Oct 6, 2015
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.11a
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.11a
Thanks Steve! Can you tell me how/where Black Fetus would go? Oct 6, 2015
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
 
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
 
Nice description James. Thanks Oct 6, 2015
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.11a
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.11a
Send it my way Eggs Oct 5, 2015
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Yo who's done this one lately, and can write a good description? Oct 4, 2015
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
 
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
 
Chris, can we turn this one over to for a better description. Also this has been soloed a number of times by various folks over the years. Oct 4, 2015
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.11a
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.11a
Dave-

As I've said before - this is not 5.10, it is F10, and there is a world of difference. As for it being 5.12 I think Jay's point is that typically Devils Lake routes are graded not by their hardest move (which in this case is almost certainly harder than 5.11a for anyone under 6 foot), but by the rough average of the difficulty of the climbing.

I'm also curious to know what you would rate Thouroughfare and ABM? Dec 1, 2008
Isaac Therneau
Rochester, MN
Isaac Therneau   Rochester, MN
Unless you consider some of the ratings going from insane to marginally rediculous as slipping. Many of the 5.11's I've managed to flail my way up seem nearly impossible the first time I TR them, often there are hard to find holds or improbable sequences needed. It usually isn't untill I have the route wired that it feels appropriate for the grade. Flatus is a prime example of this. Dec 1, 2008
Quote: Jay Knower, "As for Black Rib, it's a 5.11 with a 12a move on it, in classic Devil's Lake tradition. "

So now I was climbing 5.12 in '71 ??

My first 5.10, and one of my favorite 5.10's, next to Flatus that is.

My question, were we actually climbing that hard, back in '69-'73 during my stint at "The Lake", were I ticked essentially every F10 in the old "Red Book of Westmarch", in my way too big RD's, plus freeing a bunch of aid routes, and a few of our own ?

Or are Devil's Lake standards, starting to slip ? Nov 30, 2008
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.11b
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.11b
Yeah Tony, Bagatelle, formerly F10c is now 5.12c/d. Talk about grade inflation...

As for Black Rib, it's a 5.11 with a 12a move on it, in classic Devil's Lake tradition. Mar 2, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
The comments above are funny because when I saw the 11a designation I chucked about how my partner, a local, sandbagged me into this and Flatus few other climbs "they are only 10a!" he insisted...
I bought it for a while that I was just not dialed in to the local rock and was spooked by the lack of friction.
But after he got me to do Flatus 3D (Flatus Triple Direct) saying it was only 10b then finally Cesarean Direct at "10c", (I finished only after a hang with bloody fingers) I seized the book and noted that the scale ended at "F10c." So much for that. I understand that those are 12's now?
Regardless of the read grade, Black Rib is of the nicest thin climbs at Devil's Lake and one of the few I remember by name a decade and a half later. Take your edging shoes and get ready to crimp! Oct 18, 2006
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.11a
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.11a
This felt harder than 5.11a to me. I found it harder than ABM(5.11a/b), Thouroughfare (5.11a) and Beginner's Demise (5.11a). Oct 18, 2006
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
 
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
 
dave, F10a is the equivlent of 5.11a. the f scale and the yosemite decimal are 2 different systems. Aug 29, 2005
5.11a ? This was my first F10a back in '71 wearing an old pair of RD's. Aug 29, 2005