PRINT: Rock Climb Callipigeanous Crack, Devil's Lake

Callipigeanous Crack

5.10a PG13, Trad, TR,

Avg: 3 from 65 votes
FA: First Lead: Jim Erickson
Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 04 - E… > 09: Many Pines Buttress

Description

Callipigeanous is the appealing looking crack around the corner from Peter's Project. Unfortunately, the finger crack that looks like it swallows both protection and fingers ends at a ledge halfway up. From this ledge, make an exposed and dramatic step right onto the corner. Follow this corner (bad pro but 5.4ish climbing) to the top. If you can stomach the upper, somewhat runout part, Callipigeanous makes a great lead, perhaps one of the best at Devil's Lake. The lower moves are powerful yet oddly delicate while the upper section holds your interest despite the relatively easy climbing.

Protection

Small--TCUs and nuts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Alex Beld | Callipigeanous Crack

Keller of the HWDAMF sending Callipigeanous Crack onsight.

routes on SW face of Many Pines - right side

Tom Kohlman back in the day.

Entering the runout second half

In the Crux

Ron eyeing it up...

Steve Z onsighting Callipigeanous. April 09.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs, co

first lead: Jim Ericksonfirst lead of Callipigeanous Direct: Pete Cleveland Nov 6, 2002

Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs, co

callipigeanous direct is also a worthy lead 5.10+ ,use to be some old pins ya could back up with wires. at the ledge(where the huge loose block use to reside before dlfa trundle)go straight up.what the heck does callipigeanous mean???? Mar 25, 2005

Pete Arndt

I believe the word callipigeanous means "shapely buttocks".Translation: Nice Ass!!! Mar 26, 2005

James Schroeder
Fort Collins, CO

5.10a PG13

I think given the runout upper section this deserves a PG13, at least. Even though the climbing difficulties are over a fall from most places on the upper section wouldn't be safe... Mar 11, 2010

chris tregge
Madison WI

5.10a

I've felt that way on a number of DL climbs James, business at the start, then runout 5.5-5.7 climbing at the top. Mar 11, 2010

Remo
Madison, WI

5.10a

This is a must do lead! Great gear, and solid moves to the ledge. The run-out up top is heady, but easy, and you can find decent gear to protect it. Jul 10, 2012

Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI

5.10a PG13

I agree with James that it should have a PG13. The gear is great through all the hard stuff but the 5.5 climbing to the top is a bit runout. There is enough gear to keep you off the ground the whole way but it still wouldn't be a nice fall.

If you're strong enough to lead the crux you will be perfectly fine on the rest so go do it! Jul 10, 2016

David Kelm
Northglenn, CO

5.10a

This climb makes for a great onsight at the grade. I found that there was enough bomber gear at the top as to not deserve a PG13 but it is definitely border line. Mar 6, 2021