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Camp 4 Wall
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Buttocks, The 
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Doggie Deviations 
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Secret Storm 

5.10a

   
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FA: 1971 Peter Haan and Roger Breedlove
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 250 feet
Views: 117 page views

Submitted By: Ed Hartouni on Jul 5, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: Upper crack to the belay


Description 

The "3rd class" scramble is best protected with a rope as the ledge and corner are dirty and loose.

From a tree in the corner above the 3rd class a stunning hand crack behind a rock flake is gained and climbed over the bulge to a pod. Getting into the pod is the first crux. Offwidth up this, can be strenuous, reaching the upper chimney. This chimney is more difficult than 5.7 and there is a delicate set of moves to get up and over left to the belay bolts.


Location 

From Doggie Do, go up the sandy slope to the left walking the base to the promenent ramp/corner which can be scrambled 3rd/4th class. If you go to far out on this you find yourself at the start of Edge of Night. You want the early dirty corner that leads up from the big oak.


Protection 

Pro through 4" good placements back in the crack take smaller. Some thoughtful placements at the top to protect the second traversing over to the belay.