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Routes in Camp 4 Wall

Buttocks, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheek T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Chopper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cid's Embrace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doggie Deviations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Doggie Diversions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Doggie Do T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Edge of Night T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Ol' Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Henley Quits T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lancelot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rock Bottom T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Secret Storm T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tweedle Dee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Young and the Restless T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kevin Worrall and George Meyers (1974)
Page Views: 156 total · 7/month
Shared By: Bryan G on May 24, 2016
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description

Located about 100ft uphill to the right of Doggie Deviations. Start at the thin flake and crack. Looks sort of like Crack-a-GoGo, but much harder.

The crux is about 10ft up and involves a big move to a small finger jam. This would be a much more reasonable lead if there were a couple fixed KB's at the start. As it stands, it's pretty sketchy making such an improbable move with marginal wires protecting against a ground-fall.

After the crux move is a bit more 5.11 fingerlocking in pin scars and bad feet. Then climb up and left to a beautiful hand crack splitter (Bottom Line 10d, takes the groove further left). A 5.10d finger crack bulge with a piton is the last difficult section, then more handjams in a corner lead to a ledge. Be careful as you climb past some perched blocks moving over right to the anchor.

Rappel with two ropes. One 80m might make it.

Above the anchor, a short second pitch leads up the dirty 5.8 corner to a walk-off. We didn't climb it.

Protection

Pro to 3" including RP's.

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