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Routes in Camp 4 Wall

Buttocks, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheek T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Chopper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cid's Embrace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doggie Deviations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Doggie Diversions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Doggie Do T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Edge of Night T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Ol' Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Henley Quits T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lancelot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rock Bottom T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Secret Storm T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tweedle Dee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Young and the Restless T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Fredericks, Rich Doleman, Jim Bridwell (Oct '67)
Page Views: 1,440 total, 21/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Mar 10, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Camp 4 Wall is known for it's wide and burly cracks, and Edge of Night epitomizes this style of climbing.

Scramble up the 3rd class gully as you would for Secret Storm, but instead of continuing up, traverse left on ledges past the old bolted anchor at the top of Sample the Dog (a short 12a face climb). At the end of this ledge you will find a clean 4" crack in a corner. This is the start of Edge of Night.

Climb the crack past a couple old bolts to a crux section which starts as an offwidth corner until the corner pinches closed to form a tight flared chimney. I found this section to be pretty secure and you can walk a bomber #5 Camalot above your head the whole way, but making upward progress can be sort of thrutchy and tiring. There was a fixed #6 Camalot in the middle of the crux. Above this is an easy chimney to a tight tunnel-through behind a chockstone. Don't place gear way deep in the back of the chimney or it could potentially drag your cams below into the crack (like that #6) Belay ontop of the chockstone.

Pitch 2 is only rated 5.9 but it's tough and the pro isn't quite as solid and easy to place as on the first pitch. Start up the awkward corner until you come to another wedged chockstone. You can maybe tunnel behind the chockstone but I passed it to the right. Lieback the edge of the flake on the outside of the chimney (it's possible to chimney up first to place some pro, then chimney back down to the chockstone). A final jam crack to a weird and difficult mantel, then some easy face climbing, leads up to the rap tree.

From the rap tree, make one double-rope rappel back to the ledge and then scramble off the way you came up.

I linked the two pitches into one long "full value" pitch, but the rope drag was pretty terrible by the top so I don't know if I'd recommend that.

Protection

Cams from 1" to 6" with doubles from 2" to 4.5".

Photos

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Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
I remember going up there in the formative years with Dick Cilley.
Here is what he says about the route over on SuperTopo:
Funny story about I think Edge of Night. I was struggling on it and I yelled down to the Fish, you want to come up and take a look? He asked, How is it?(the fall) I looked down at the pro and said, "Itś death Russ". He said, "Naw thats alright".
Cilley then finished off the pitch.

I remember it being real good and with modern pro, it should be a nice afternoon out. Mar 17, 2014
Christina Freschl
Berkeley, California
 
Christina Freschl   Berkeley, California
 
There is a strange set of bolts about 60ft up from the ledge. They are brand new, but no rap rings and they are weirdly offset, one above the other. I led the pitch in one go, but it might be smart to break it up. The top is super dirty, but can be protected with something tiny. 200ft of full value wide climbing. Mar 17, 2014