Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
FA: Chris Fredericks, Rich Doleman, Jim Bridwell (Oct '67)
Page Views: 3,173 total · 21/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Mar 10, 2012
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

Camp 4 Wall is known for it's wide and burly cracks, and Edge of Night epitomizes this style of climbing.

Scramble up the 3rd class gully as you would for Secret Storm, but instead of continuing up, traverse left on ledges past the old bolted anchor at the top of Sample the Dog (a short 12a face climb). At the end of this ledge you will find a clean 4" crack in a corner. This is the start of Edge of Night.

Climb the crack past a couple old bolts to a crux section which starts as an offwidth corner until the corner pinches closed to form a tight flared chimney. I found this section to be pretty secure and you can walk a bomber #5 Camalot above your head the whole way, but making upward progress can be sort of thrutchy and tiring. There was a fixed #6 Camalot in the middle of the crux. Above this is an easy chimney to a tight tunnel-through behind a chockstone. Don't place gear way deep in the back of the chimney or it could potentially drag your cams below into the crack (like that #6) Belay ontop of the chockstone.

Pitch 2 is only rated 5.9 but it's tough and the pro isn't quite as solid and easy to place as on the first pitch. Start up the awkward corner until you come to another wedged chockstone. You can maybe tunnel behind the chockstone but I passed it to the right. Lieback the edge of the flake on the outside of the chimney (it's possible to chimney up first to place some pro, then chimney back down to the chockstone). A final jam crack to a weird and difficult mantel, then some easy face climbing, leads up to the rap tree.

From the rap tree, make one double-rope rappel back to the ledge and then scramble off the way you came up.

I linked the two pitches into one long "full value" pitch, but the rope drag was pretty terrible by the top so I don't know if I'd recommend that.

Protection Suggest change

Cams from 1" to 6" with doubles from 2" to 4.5".

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