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Secret Storm
5.10a,
Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 2.6 from 12
votes
FA: 1971 Peter Haan and Roger Breedlove
California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley N Side
> D. Camp 4 Area
> 5. Camp 4 Wall
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit
climbingyosemite.com/ and
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The "3rd class" scramble is best protected with a rope as the ledge and corner are dirty and loose.
From a tree in the corner above the 3rd class a stunning hand crack behind a rock flake is gained and climbed over the bulge to a pod. Getting into the pod is the first crux. Offwidth up this, can be strenuous, reaching the upper chimney. This chimney is more difficult than 5.7 and there is a delicate set of moves to get up and over left to the belay bolts.
Location
From Doggie Do, go up the sandy slope to the left walking the base to the promenent ramp/corner which can be scrambled 3rd/4th class. If you go to far out on this you find yourself at the start of Edge of Night. You want the early dirty corner that leads up from the big oak.
Protection
Pro through 4" good placements back in the crack take smaller. Some thoughtful placements at the top to protect the second traversing over to the belay.
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Sacramento, CA
Broomfield, CO
There isn't that much loose rock, though the top belay anchor is a little unnerving as it is two very old bolts backed up by webbing slung through a very hollow knifeblade flake. This would be a good anchor to re-bolt & spare the neighboring rock.
Chimney felt like 5.7 to me, not too bad, although it is probably harder closer to the outside where it is narrower, and at the exit if you're facing the 'better' way for the chimney (right side in). I burrowed deep inside to where it was wide enough to turn left-side in, and chimneyed up the wider part before I traversed out to the undercling & little roof.
You can barely make it down with 1 60m rope if you rappel to the tree belay and then to the ground.
Last weekend I added new webbing and a new rap ring to the top anchor.
And the climb is NOT R. If you bring up to a #6 Camalot you can aid everything but the 5.7 chimney on the climb if desired, and you could fall asleep inside that chimney and not fall out! Apr 24, 2012
Werner and I rescued a climber who had gotten badly jammed at that spot. The victim had to stand on my shoulders as I jammed below him on lead, for to get his knee out. The situation was obviously quite funny but it was horrifying for the young Schoen kid and in this sense, the climb has an easy enough potential for R. Dec 24, 2012