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Routes in Camp 4 Wall

Buttocks, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheek T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Chopper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cid's Embrace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doggie Deviations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Doggie Diversions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Doggie Do T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Edge of Night T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Ol' Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Henley Quits T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lancelot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rock Bottom T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Secret Storm T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tweedle Dee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Young and the Restless T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: R. Sylvester & M. Klemens, 1970
Page Views: 1,858 total, 14/month
Shared By: Sirius on Apr 22, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description


Easy moves up an initial blocky section lead to the long hands to fist/rattly fist crack that makes up the bulk of this route. Two distinct cruxes in this crack. From the stance at the top of the crack, a final, unexpected challenge makes you commit to earn the nicely situated anchors 15 ft higher.

Location

Twenty-five feet climber's right of Henley Quits. You may have to step back a bit to see the fist crack, as the blocky start obscures it when standing directly beneath.

Protection

To 4", with extra fist and rattly fist sized pieces. Bolted anchor at the top. Two single-rope raps down Cid's Embrace (the other line that tops out at this anchor) will get you down, or one double-rope rap from the anchor. If you opt for the single rope rap (recommended, to avoid rope snags), stop at the obvious, slung tree 60 ft above the ground to make your second rap.

Photos

Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.9
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.9
Loose rock is not a problem on this route. The start has some loose flakes, but you can take the next corner over and step back into the system higher up to avoid it. Apart from the start, there is just a loose chockstone at the beginning of the unexpected challenge. You can pull on it, just don't yank out on it.

Great route overall!

Be wary on the rappels if you're using doubles. The current anchor allows the rope tip to snag on a chockstone at the top just before it pulls through the rings. It doesn't matter whether you stop short or go to the ground first. We got our rope stuck after climbing Lancelot, freed it after climbing Cid's, after which it got stuck again. Fortunately we could pull it enough to pop it out. The rope pulls clear enough from the ground as a single rappel if you pull from the side over by Henley Quits. Feb 6, 2012
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
Don't recall any loose rock on this one, but the anchor could use replacing. This route is a great way to warm up for Henley Quits. Apr 7, 2011
Dave Alden
Seattle, WA
  5.9 R
Dave Alden   Seattle, WA
  5.9 R
A fun rouet that stretches the rope. So much loose rock though, once is enough. Feb 28, 2011