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Routes in Camp 4 Wall

Buttocks, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheek T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Chopper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cid's Embrace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doggie Deviations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Doggie Diversions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Doggie Do T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Edge of Night T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Ol' Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Henley Quits T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lancelot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rock Bottom T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Secret Storm T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tweedle Dee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Young and the Restless T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Kim Schmitz & Jim Bridwell, 1968
Page Views: 2,772 total, 22/month
Shared By: Sirius on Apr 22, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

A good pitch which is in your face right off the ground. Fingers, tight hands, hands, liebacks, body language all required at some point. Crux is low, but the entire first half of the route is sustained at the grade. A proud send, put up by two collosal figures in Yosemite's golden age, when 5.9 was a whole different concept.

A variation, also 5.9, takes the thin flake right of the crack. Not sure about quality of pro in this flake.

Location

From the boulder field, keep your eyes open for the two obvious, short widecracks, Doggie Do and Doggie Diversions. Doggie Deviations, your climb, is just uphill from these. Fingers to tight-hands off the deck, can't miss it.
We were able to rap with one 60, but it was close.

Protection

To 2.5"

Photos

Spandex Jesionek
East Bay, CA
 
Spandex Jesionek   East Bay, CA
 
Such a cool route. Lots of mosquitos in spring and early summer due to huge tree coverage and nearby drainage - make sure your belayer is watching you and not slapping mosquitos.

You will be challenged on this stout climb with a huge variety of techniques: jams, fists, first twenty ft of sustained fingers, lieback, some offwidth, and even some careful stemming towards the end. Bring nuts for a few parts toward the top that will take nothing else. Also a #4 would help at the top of the overhanging wide part about 2/3 of the way up.

ENJOY! Sep 21, 2013
My GF and I made an attempt on this back in 1982. She led the thin flake portion nicely, and the pro was reasonable using some small wired stoppers and quick-draws. I continued on up a slick lieback above and took a short whipper. She insisted that we go down at that point, since she got jarred catching me. But to answer the implied question, re: protection of the thin flake, it was adequate--probably as good as the flake itself. Mar 13, 2012