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Routes in Camp 4 Wall

Buttocks, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheek T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Chopper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cid's Embrace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doggie Deviations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Doggie Diversions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Doggie Do T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Edge of Night T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Ol' Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Henley Quits T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lancelot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rock Bottom T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Secret Storm T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tweedle Dee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Young and the Restless T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,392 total, 14/month
Shared By: Wesley Ashwood on Oct 26, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Getting started may be the hardest part of this climb. With an awkward move you can wedge your body up into a somewhat chimney move. The first 60' is a combination of jamming in one of two cracks (effectively hugging the rock) until a small ledge with a tree. Rap here or continue up another double crack system with a few laybacks and near chimney moves until you come to the true chimney. A few easier moves and you are at a ledge with two old 1/4" bolts and a large flake to rap from. Lancelot can also be TR'ed from here. I may not make it sound too fun, but its certainly a fun deviation.

Location

Follow the stream bed out of the West end of Camp 4, it is on the second crag you come to on the left side. Scramble up a small dirt slop to a shaded flat landing. A large block is leaning against the wall which marks the base of Lancelot, Cid's Embrace is around the corner to the left.

Protection

A few nuts may be useful but mostly cams up to a #3 BD. Consider bringing doubles of the larger sizes and even a #4.

Photos

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Mark P Thomas
Draper
 
Mark P Thomas   Draper
 
I found the upper section to be harder and more interesting than the lower section. I don't see why people stop after the first 60 ft! I found Lancelot to be less burly than this route, so I recommend climbing Lancelot as a warmup.

The upper section doesn't really have a double crack system, but rather, more of a wide flake that divides the chimney into two wide, wavy slots. The flake seemed too rounded for liebacking, so I stemmed and climbed the right slot as an offwidth. Wear long sleeves or the gritty rock will give you bloody triceps as you chickenwing. Frankly this upper section felt more like a 5.9 offwidth to me, maybe about the same difficulty as P2 of Doggie Diversions (or maybe I was just climbing it wrong :-) ). The cracks are really wide and I was regretting leaving my #5 Camalot on the ground. Bring one #5 Camalot if you want decent pro on the upper crux.

Be wary on the rappels if you're using doubles. The current anchor allows the rope tip to snag on a chockstone at the top just before it pulls through the rings. It doesn't matter whether you stop short or go to the ground first. We got our rope stuck after climbing Lancelot, freed it after climbing Cid's, after which it got stuck again. Fortunately we could pull it enough to pop it out. The rope pulls clear enough from the ground as a single rappel if you pull from the side over by Henley Quits.

For those just doing the first 60', the anchor was pretty shady, so I added new slings and a rapp ring as of February 2012. Feb 6, 2012