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Routes in Camp 4 Wall

Buttocks, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheek T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Chopper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cid's Embrace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doggie Deviations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Doggie Diversions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Doggie Do T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Edge of Night T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Ol' Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Henley Quits T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lancelot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rock Bottom T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Secret Storm T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tweedle Dee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Young and the Restless T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Chris Fredericks, Summer 1965
Page Views: 3,965 total · 30/month
Shared By: Will S on Jun 28, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details


This short OW is mostly moderate, punctuated with a short difficult crux coming out of the pod.


The route is located 10' left of the first pitch squeeze chimney of Doggie Diversions just left of where the streambed first meets the wall. Walk off climbers left.


Big cams, #3 camalot to #4.5 camalot, optional hand sized piece.


I agree that the crux is exiting the pod. I wore my approach shoe on my right foot which made the lower part really easy. But try as I might, I really struggled on the upper part. I ended up using several versions of hand stacks and was able to crank though.
My Buddy Tristan tried to lead this before I got on it. He simply slid the green C4 ahead of him for the whole lower part. and a purple for the upper. He had been feeling a bit sick all week and the fight with the crux made him "want to throw up!" Several times he looked down with a pretty nasty look and I thought, here it comes. Oct 19, 2008
San Jose
Alexey   San Jose
this route is felt way harder than 10a - calf locks with hand stacks is the ticket on crux section Feb 18, 2010
Bryan G
Bryan G   Yosemite
It's harder than it looks from the ground. Can't quite get my knee jam to stick in the OW while exiting the pod. There's many Valley OW's of the grade (Secret Storm, Sacherer Cracker, Chingando, Reed's Left) that feel substantially easier. Feb 1, 2011
Phil Esra
Phil Esra  
felt harder than Generator Crack to me. May 2, 2011
Mark P Thomas
Mark P Thomas   Draper
What's with the hand stacks? The flare felt too tight and deep for me to get any stacks. I just couldn't get both hands deep enough into the crack. Better to side pull crimp on the inside crack and other features until you can sidepull on a jam in the inside crack. Careful foot stacking on the flare brings you out OK. Once your feet are past the blocks in the pod, it seemed to climb well as a squeeze chimney.

A #6 BD C4 is all you need for the bottom half, then a #4 BD C4 can be left as a backup just below the crux, and a #5 BD C4 can be pushed through the crux. Another #4 BD (or a #3?) can be placed to protect the final twist & exit as you've left the #5 behind by then. Dec 19, 2011
FA: Chris Fredericks, by 1970 Jan 21, 2012
The FA was indeed by Chris Fredericks, but it was Summer, 1965. Mar 13, 2012
Weston L
Summerlin, NV
Weston L   Summerlin, NV
wiggle wiggle wiggle!

Bring gear to 5" and you will be fine. No need for double of anything. May 1, 2012
John Hovell
San Francisco, California
John Hovell   San Francisco, California
Felt much harder than .10a to me as well, but I guess I just don't have the technique for the crux. Even the lower part felt very touch and go - delicate stemming on the left with back on the right wall to get up high enough to heel toe. Would be curious to hear how others managed the crux. I could do all the moves but had to rest - felt way more strenuous than 10a. Nov 8, 2016

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