Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: 1969 Kim Schmitz and Don Peterson
Page Views: 911 total · 6/month
Shared By: Ed Hartouni on Jul 4, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

A crystally right facing corner is climbed to the chimney. The move into the chimney is the crux. No protection once in the chimney until you get up to the chokestones at the top.

Location

Up and right from Doggie Deviations

Protection

Standard Yosemite Valley rack.

Photos

Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
The chimney tunnel-through is cool. The start is kind of nasty with pro in exfoliating rock. Bring a big cam to protect the begining, followed by some pieces in the 1-3" range to get you into the chimney.

Worth doing once. Dec 18, 2011
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.9
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.9
Chimney has bomber pro all the way up if you go deep enough inside. There is a flake in there that takes small pro, but it is so tight & secure that you'll wonder why you're placing it. Bring a headlamp if you want to see the way up with the least dirt & grime.

There is free booty in the lodged debris, but you'll probably want to skip that like I did and just get back out into daylight.

A #2 BD C4 cam or a solid hand jam protects the crux if you slip on the exfoliating granite.

This route is somewhat entertaining but you'll only do it once. Feb 29, 2012