Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
GPS: 37.74268, -119.60709
FA: Andrew Pittman, Forrest Pailes, Bobby Hebel, Zach Dreher. May 2025
Page Views: 143 total · 15/month
Shared By: 4ist P on May 10, 2025 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

: the official route of the 2026 bishop toyota/lexus december to remember sales event

TOYOTATHON has it all! thin slab cruxes, exposed arete climbing, enduro liebacking, bouldery sequences, and a grunt-worthy chimney with a sporty crux in the middle, every pitch on this climb is what the kids are calling a "rig" these days! Follow it up with one of the easiest walk-offs in the valley and you've got yourself a certified modern classic. Afternoon shade.

Pitch 1: Start up the dirty hand crack, with some fun jamming and stemming, hook a left at the good ledge and make a few easy moves to a bolt. Get on your dancing shoes and head left to another bolt and onto the arete. Ignore the decoy buttonhead on the left side of the arete. stop to belay at the stance, or keep going for the full value. continue through a crux off of the stance and follow bolts to the base of the dihedral.The first half of this pitch to the optional belay has been done before, if anyone has information on that please post it!

Pitch 2: power liebeck up a left arching line with good but strenuous gear. Place a #2 below the underclings and fire an amazing boulder crux up to a perfect gym knob. Enduro your way up the rest of the crack to a dead tree. For the full value go right into 15 extra feet of 10+ fingers. At the ledge head left to a two-trunked tree growing out of the bottom of chimney. Extend the tree belay ten feet left around the corner to the base of the chimney.

Pitch 3: Chimney your way up, placing some finger sized gear off the deck, and when the chimney thins another chimney appears, place a #4, and pull a sporty move to get into the next chimney. Ride that baby all the way to a good ledge. No gear on the upper half but it is no harder than 5.8. Similar to the Texas flake. This pitch is a little runout and grunty but not too hard.

Pitch 4: work your way up the mungy 5.7 crack, step left onto the slab above George W. Bush, and move towards the first of four bolts. Climb the fun 5.10 slab and at the top traverse right on the sometimes wet hand rail across a water streak and into the dirt groove. Climb the 5.8 dirty flare to a good tree at the top. The straight up roof crack is a future variation currently open project.

DESCENT: by far the easiest way is to walk off slightly up and to the right.  Cross a small stream in spring, and head towards the base of camp 4 wall. Its fairly obvious, at no point does it get harder than 3rd class. It is possible to rappel the route with a double rope rappel. Rap off the top tree, down to the halfway ledge tree. Rap off the halfway tree, double ropes WILL NOT get you to the ground UNLESS you swing hard climbers right to get into the higher portion of the gully. IF YOU CHOOSE TO RAP YOU WILL BE AT THE VERY ENDS OF YOUR ROPE, PLEASE TIE KNOTS, YOU COULD DIE. Watch out for loose blocks when pulling the rope. There is currently no tat or links on the rappel trees (May 2025)

AFTERNOON SHADE makes this a great half day romp! The routes name is specialized for search engine optimization. 

Location Suggest change

APPROACH:
Head up the camp 4 gully behind the SAR site, approximately 20-30 mins of boulder scrambling later you'll reach the base of the buttress. It is the last good piece of rock before the gully in between the camp 4 wall big wall and the cragging zone. See photos for pictures of the start.

GPS COORDS FOR BASE:
37°44'38"N 119°36'27"W

Protection Suggest change

double rack to #3, maybe a few extra small pieces. single #4 for the chimney, 10 draws (alpines useful)

Photos

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