Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Frank Sacherer and Jim Baldwin (June '63)|
|Page Views:||2,402 total · 25/month|
|Shared By:||Bryan G on Apr 30, 2012|
|Admins:||M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
The first pitch starts up a nice flared chimney and you get a tight fist crack in the back a short ways up. The rock deteriorates on the upper portion of the pitch. Climb up to a bay tree, by way of a committing OW lieback to the left or a protectable corner to the right. Belay above the tree on your choice of ledge. I went to the highest ledge below the start of a steep chimney where I found rock suitable for a decent gear anchor.
Pitch 2 was the crux I thought, but I could have been off route. A steep, flared chimney is below another tree. The start is somewhat rotten and tricky but you can stem a right foot out into a crack on the face. Once you're in it you can tunnel up a wider section in the back and place some pro (.75" cams or nuts). From here I was trapped by a constriction so I had to wiggle down a few feet and then move to the flared outside of the chimney. This section proved to be one of the hardest 5.8 wide cracks I've done. Once you gain the tree, easier climbing leads to another ledge. There is another chimney system to the right which looks like it might provide an easier alternative and perhaps even be the correct way, I'm not sure.
The 3rd pitch move right from the ledge into another flared chimney, this one a much more mild 5.8 which takes bomber #5 and #4 Camalots for much of the way. A final short handcrack to the right leads to the top.
To descend, scramble to the right along the brushy ledge system and then down to a rap tree. Make one rap down a steep gully. Then make an easy 20ft downclimb in a corner to link up with the descent for The Buttocks. Class 2 leads down to the talus from here.