Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches
FA: Frank Sacherer and Jim Baldwin (June '63)
Page Views: 3,417 total · 23/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Apr 30, 2012
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

4 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is the obvious chimney/gully system that is just to the left of the "Doggie" climbs. It has a few sections of clean and fun chimney climbing mixed in with some rotten rock and plenty of munge.

The first pitch starts up a nice flared chimney and you get a tight fist crack in the back a short ways up. The rock deteriorates on the upper portion of the pitch. Climb up to a bay tree, by way of a committing OW lieback to the left or a protectable corner to the right. Belay above the tree on your choice of ledge. I went to the highest ledge below the start of a steep chimney where I found rock suitable for a decent gear anchor.

Pitch 2 was the crux I thought, but I could have been off route. A steep, flared chimney is below another tree. The start is somewhat rotten and tricky but you can stem a right foot out into a crack on the face. Once you're in it you can tunnel up a wider section in the back and place some pro (.75" cams or nuts). From here I was trapped by a constriction so I had to wiggle down a few feet and then move to the flared outside of the chimney. This section proved to be one of the hardest 5.8 wide cracks I've done. Once you gain the tree, easier climbing leads to another ledge. There is another chimney system to the right which looks like it might provide an easier alternative and perhaps even be the correct way, I'm not sure.

The 3rd pitch move right from the ledge into another flared chimney, this one a much more mild 5.8 which takes bomber #5 and #4 Camalots for much of the way. A final short handcrack to the right leads to the top.

To descend, scramble to the right along the brushy ledge system and then down to a rap tree. Make one rap down a steep gully. Then make an easy 20ft downclimb in a corner to link up with the descent for The Buttocks. Class 2 leads down to the talus from here.

Protection Suggest change

Pro to 4.5"