Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Frank Sacherer and Jim Baldwin (June '63)
Page Views: 1,952 total · 24/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Apr 30, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This is the obvious chimney/gully system that is just to the left of the "Doggie" climbs. It has a few sections of clean and fun chimney climbing mixed in with some rotten rock and plenty of munge.

The first pitch starts up a nice flared chimney and you get a tight fist crack in the back a short ways up. The rock deteriorates on the upper portion of the pitch. Climb up to a bay tree, by way of a committing OW lieback to the left or a protectable corner to the right. Belay above the tree on your choice of ledge. I went to the highest ledge below the start of a steep chimney where I found rock suitable for a decent gear anchor.

Pitch 2 was the crux I thought, but I could have been off route. A steep, flared chimney is below another tree. The start is somewhat rotten and tricky but you can stem a right foot out into a crack on the face. Once you're in it you can tunnel up a wider section in the back and place some pro (.75" cams or nuts). From here I was trapped by a constriction so I had to wiggle down a few feet and then move to the flared outside of the chimney. This section proved to be one of the hardest 5.8 wide cracks I've done. Once you gain the tree, easier climbing leads to another ledge. There is another chimney system to the right which looks like it might provide an easier alternative and perhaps even be the correct way, I'm not sure.

The 3rd pitch move right from the ledge into another flared chimney, this one a much more mild 5.8 which takes bomber #5 and #4 Camalots for much of the way. A final short handcrack to the right leads to the top.

To descend, scramble to the right along the brushy ledge system and then down to a rap tree. Make one rap down a steep gully. Then make an easy 20ft downclimb in a corner to link up with the descent for The Buttocks. Class 2 leads down to the talus from here.

Protection

Pro to 4.5"

Photos

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Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.8
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.8
Bryan, I think you were off-route on the first two pitches. I have climbed it twice, linking pitches to do it as two, and the rotten rock wasn't that bad and limited to the middle of P1. It is actually one of my favorite chimney climbs in Yosemite! I took the left line, a bit farther away from Doggie Do & Doggie Diversions. I once tried climbing the line that starts directly above Doggie Do, that eventually merges with the line, and I backed off because it was so awful. I wonder if you took that one?

It is pretty tough for a 5.8 chimney, and it is good to be familiar with rotating your body for the crux, as well as pushing cams. The old Roper guide describes the crux as an 'overhanging bombay flare', which is right! Got me thinking on my first time.

Pics:
Tweedle Dee Round 1
Tweedle Dee Round 2 May 24, 2013