Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Mark Klemens and Rick Sylvester, July 1970
Page Views: 3,479 total · 23/month
Shared By: Sirius on Apr 13, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


So very classic. Work up the first 25' of easy wide climbing to the small ledge beneath the striking, flared squeeze chimney. After another ~35' the chimney (5.8) will begin to pinch down to take fists, then cupped hands, and finally hands, all the while arching and steepening. This is a wild and pumpy crux section that does not let up until you turn the flake at the top of the crack. Pull over the small roof/step on good holds, hold down the pump and gun up a thin crack in a shallow dihedral for the chains.
Either rap with two ropes, or rap on a single rope to the anchors above Cristina (down and climber's left), and rap again from here to the ground. Run a couple of laps on the beginning lieback section of Cristina for a bonus.


300 feet further up the boulder field from the Doggie Deviations area.


Doubles to 5", 5-7" cams protect the chimney. Be sure to have small/finger pieces or nuts for the top.