Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Mead Hargis and Rick Sylvester (1971)
Page Views: 1,059 total · 12/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Dec 18, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Chopper has all the trappings of a classic pitch of Yosemite crack climbing. It's clean, steep, burly, and sustained all the way to the anchors. It will test your hand and fist jamming techniques as well as your lieback and offwidth skills.

Walk a short ways past the "Doggie" climbs and you will see this intimidating flake. The crux comes at the obvious section where the flake overhangs and you must exit a pod and climb through a strenuous undercling to a lieback. Above, a section of stout 5.9 offwidth guards the anchor.

The anchor is a couple of 40-year-old 1/4" bolts backed up by a sling around a constriction in the crack. You can also leave a nut if you don't like the looks of it. This excellent climb (and several others at Camp 4 wall) deserve some new hardware.

We were able to rap with a 60m rope which barely makes it if you swing over to the right. A 70m rope would make top-roping easier.

Protection

Pro to 6", especially 3" and up. Make sure you save a #6 Camalot (or equivalent) to protect the 5.9 offwidth at the end.

Photos

- No Photos -
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Another fine classic of the genre on the Camp 4 Wall. Exiting the pod thingy is a tough transition into the layback. Great route! Mar 17, 2014