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Chopper
5.10c,
Trad, 115 ft (35 m),
Avg: 3 from 7
votes
FA: Mead Hargis and Rick Sylvester (1971)
California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley N Side
> D. Camp 4 Area
> 5. Camp 4 Wall
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit
climbingyosemite.com/ and
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Chopper has all the trappings of a classic pitch of Yosemite crack climbing. It's clean, steep, burly, and sustained all the way to the anchors. It will test your hand and fist jamming techniques as well as your lieback and offwidth skills.
Walk a short ways past the "Doggie" climbs and you will see this intimidating flake. The crux comes at the obvious section where the flake overhangs and you must exit a pod and climb through a strenuous undercling to a lieback. Above, a section of stout 5.9 offwidth guards the anchor.
The anchor is a couple of 40-year-old 1/4" bolts backed up by a sling around a constriction in the crack. You can also leave a nut if you don't like the looks of it. This excellent climb (and several others at Camp 4 wall) deserve some new hardware.
We were able to rap with a 60m rope which barely makes it if you swing over to the right. A 70m rope would make top-roping easier.
Protection
Pro to 6", especially 3" and up. Make sure you save a #6 Camalot (or equivalent) to protect the 5.9 offwidth at the end.
Flaky Foont, WI. Redacted…