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Routes in Camp 4 Wall

Buttocks, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheek T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Chopper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cid's Embrace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doggie Deviations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Doggie Diversions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Doggie Do T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Edge of Night T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Ol' Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Henley Quits T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lancelot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rock Bottom T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Secret Storm T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tweedle Dee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Young and the Restless T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1971 Peter Haan and Roger Breedlove
Page Views: 1,666 total, 13/month
Shared By: Ed Hartouni on Jul 4, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

The "3rd class" scramble is best protected with a rope as the ledge and corner are dirty and loose.

From a tree in the corner above the 3rd class a stunning hand crack behind a rock flake is gained and climbed over the bulge to a pod. Getting into the pod is the first crux. Offwidth up this, can be strenuous, reaching the upper chimney. This chimney is more difficult than 5.7 and there is a delicate set of moves to get up and over left to the belay bolts.

Location

From Doggie Do, go up the sandy slope to the left walking the base to the promenent ramp/corner which can be scrambled 3rd/4th class. If you go to far out on this you find yourself at the start of Edge of Night. You want the early dirty corner that leads up from the big oak.

Protection

Pro through 4" good placements back in the crack take smaller. Some thoughtful placements at the top to protect the second traversing over to the belay.

Photos

This is a good climb for intermediates. But the nice little climb could end up being "R" if the leader is neglectful or lazy and lets his or her knee slip down in gaining the first off width from the initial lieback section.

Werner and I rescued a climber who had gotten badly jammed at that spot. The victim had to stand on my shoulders as I jammed below him on lead, for to get his knee out. The situation was obviously quite funny but it was horrifying for the young Schoen kid and in this sense, the climb has an easy enough potential for R. Dec 24, 2012
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.10a
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.10a
Definitely use a belay on the approach pitch. I'd call it 5.4-5.5 with loose dirt & bushwacking. It kind of sucks, but the real pitch is worth the effort. Make sure to stay further right than you think. Don't take the midway ledge across but hug the wall and keep going up until you reach a rapp anchor off of the tree.

There isn't that much loose rock, though the top belay anchor is a little unnerving as it is two very old bolts backed up by webbing slung through a very hollow knifeblade flake. This would be a good anchor to re-bolt & spare the neighboring rock.

Chimney felt like 5.7 to me, not too bad, although it is probably harder closer to the outside where it is narrower, and at the exit if you're facing the 'better' way for the chimney (right side in). I burrowed deep inside to where it was wide enough to turn left-side in, and chimneyed up the wider part before I traversed out to the undercling & little roof.

You can barely make it down with 1 60m rope if you rappel to the tree belay and then to the ground.

Last weekend I added new webbing and a new rap ring to the top anchor.

And the climb is NOT R. If you bring up to a #6 Camalot you can aid everything but the 5.7 chimney on the climb if desired, and you could fall asleep inside that chimney and not fall out! Apr 24, 2012
Dave Alden
Seattle, WA
  5.10a R
Dave Alden   Seattle, WA
  5.10a R
Fun but A LOT of loose rock. Feb 28, 2011
Tommy L-D  
 
The "3rd Class Scramble" definitely felt like some 5th class near the top, belay definitely recommended Oct 23, 2010