The Infinite Now

New route located at the center of the Camp 4 amphitheater. Cruxes defined by hooking sections on P1, P3, and a circle head and rurp seam on p7.

I put up this route solo from July 16-Aug 13. Spending my weekends on the wall cleaning pitches and climbing. I rappelled the route, fixing a rope along the p7 traverse.

P1: easy hooks up slab to a brown bolt. More hooking leads to a lightly expanding arc to more hooks and expanding. Nailing is delicate on this first pitch, as the flake I climbed on didn’t open up and show it could be nailed till I hammered in a beak. Large fall potential? if you blow it. A4

P2: c1 to beak nailing. Beware of yellow jackets in the bush above. They got me good and I took a 45footer landing in the shallow corner below while trying to hook past. Look for a rivet and a bat hook right of the bush. A3

Beyond lies more cool breaking and a possible cam or two. Go right on hooks to a thin nailing arc. After, good cams and a fun hook lasso get you to the belay.

P3: hook up and left to a small ledge. Find the best gear you can behind the ledge before heading up flakes and edges aiming for the corner of the roof. C1 and 5.8 to the belay. A4

P4: A2 to fun roof! Moderate aid to stance under next roof.

P5: C1 cool under wavelike roof. Meet Comedy of Horrors and traverse right on good Arrows and blades.

P6: continue up COH through 5.9 OW. Fun climbing up to roof, then c1 to tree. Either tunnel through tree, or face climb around (cool).

P7: lower and tension down around roof(25ft) c1 to beak nailing gets you around the roof. Here look for 5 bathooks around the actual corner. Hard to see. Feel free to drill an actual rivet here. Traverse left after a few good cams to rurps and circle heads and #4 heads. Round corner and belay at stance. A4

P8: A1 fun beaks. Bridge corner gap and climb up to belay at 5.8

P9: awesome 5.8 splitter pitch. (Cool bivy ledge)

P10: follow COH up 5.8/5.9 to a belay.

P11: go straight up 5.10 OW. Cut right at ledge on c1 cams to a 5” crack. Follow and hang left and up 5.8 (no pro) squeeze to roof. A1 and C1 out cool roof and traverse to tree belay.

P12:walk uphill left 5 feet and stem up tree to access slab directly above belay. Follow natural features placing gear where you can find it. Bad rope drag possible. Pull up and around a bulge left and mantle up above shelf. Climb cool overhanging flake into wide crack. Traverse left after OW on cool knobs until almost at sandy hillside. Traverse back right on ledge ( belly crawl) save a 5” piece as there’s no good gear till right before top. Bad fall potential.

Summit!

Rap route. I rapped with haulbags and pulled myself in on fixed rope on P7. It may be possible to rap from P8 straight down to P6 belay, but I didn’t try.

Enjoy.

Just right of Comedy Of Horrors. Look for brown bolt on slab 30ft up.

16 Beaks, circle heads, maybe 3 knife blades, 6 LA, no nuts, 3 sets of cams, 2 #2-3bd 1 #4bd 2 #5-6bd. All hooks