Walk on the Wild Side takes a sweeping line up the right side of Saddle Rocks and with it's deceptively moderate grade, multi-pitch climbing and the fact that nothing more than quickdraws are needed make it one of the most popular routes in all of Joshua Tree.
The climb starts by scrambling up to the base and starting off the highpoint of stacked blocks. P1) Climbing slightly left and up to start, work your way back right to belay in a natural hole at bolt anchors. 6 bolts on this pitch P2) Climb up and left to another bolted belay past 3 bolts. P3) This pitch climbs past 2 bolts to an anchor. This last pitch is a little run-out, but much easier. It's possible to combine pitches 2 and 3 together for a rope stretching pitch (a 70 meter rope works well here).
The descent offers several choices: 1) Rap the route with (2) two 60 meter ropes. The first rap is close to 100' and will take you straight down to the first anchor of Dial 911 (the next route to the left of WOWS). From here one more rap leads you to the ground.
2) The other option is to top past the last bolted anchor and walk/downclimb the ramp to the (climber's) right. At a certain point it will be best to traverse improbably out to the top of a slab to access a bolted rap anchor (this is the anchor for Presto In C Sharp). A rap from here takes you to a ledge where you will find another rap anchor that will take you down a faint waterchute and to the ground. Now walk downhill through rocks and a faint trail to the base of the rock, and back around to your packs. Please note that this descent is much longer, and slightly more involved, but has the advantage of only needing a single cord.
Lastly, if you are looking for some adventure on a long moonlit night (and/or couldn't make it on the route that day) do what the locals do and climb it by the light of the full moon.
Protection
All bolted with bolted anchors, but for the grade not a sport climb. All bolts and anchors are 3/8".
Combining P2 and P3 left us with 15-20 feet remaining on a 60m rope. A set of stoppers could come in handy halfway up P1, but the route is quite reasonable without them.
Yes this one is a good one. I agree with it as a "classic". I missed a clip and ran out pitch two and three with zero problems. A suggestion to use stoppers somewhere on pitch one is questionable. Unless I was off route (Which I admit I often go to territory un-planned) all I saw that might take a placement were loose flakes. If they are the suggested spots, well....... I damned sure would not trust them. It is well protected and not neccessary to use pro. On top there are three different sets of anchors. Two chains, two bolted with rap rings, and one single bolt. Using the rap ring set up and a 60m rope takes you pretty much right back where you started from.
By 5.10b4me From: Alhambra, California Oct 12, 2003
Did this climb for the second time yesterday. The first time was twenty years ago. Still remains classic(imo).As far as rapping, there is a rap anchor(chains) just to left(skier's left) of the anchor for WOWS. Rap from the chains to a hanging bolted belay anchor(on the route Negro Girls)with two ropes. Rap to the ground from there. You will end up to the climber's right to the start of WOWS.Rapping this way avoids a clusterf*ck on WOWS.
Don't trust those flakes for pro. This is a well protected route. If you would like a little more excitement vis a vis pro, try "Negro Girls" next door.
"but for the grade not a sport climb" Amen...better be solid at grade because the bolts feel like they are way out there; especially if you are expecting a sport bolted route. This was my first JTree climb-great intro...
This route is definately a "Must" in my book. No waiting in line, great "slab" climbing ala Jtree, not a "sport" route but draws all that is needed, 60m rope, etc... Most know the drill. To give it a "Bomb" rating confuses me (OftenI am confused so no great concern). I guess some dislike the challenge of "slab" and are thown off by the typicle Jtree less is good enough bolting (Which I love!!!). Oh well.......
A fun climb, Nice "Dog House", at the top of the P1. Glad I took 2 60 M ropes... My forgetful partner, calls this climb "Crazy Feet". No matter the name still fun. Oh and the acces trail is not directly across from the parking lot it's about 100' to the right as you face the cliff, look for the brown 4' tall stake with the Access Fund trail marker on it.
This was my fourth lead in my home town of Joshau Tree, done when I was 17 on a spectacularly clear and windy day. The experience still sticks with me, seven years later. I lead the first pitch without falls, but plenty of moments where the wind was stealing what little breath came out of me, whipping chock out of my bag in huge plumes. My focus was only broken when I feared I might be off route and those fears took further shap in the profound wonder about how I had gotten myself into such a mess. Pitch 1 ended and my more experienced partner was soon out of sight, going for the top on pitch 2. The belay device was soon up against my tie in knot, and I waited for familiar tugs on the rope or his call that he was off belay. Instead, between huge gusts of wind I heard "climb up!" My partner had done this route at leat three times before this day and I assumed we would never make the mistake of bringing a knife to a gun fight. But alas, our stupid asses had brought a fifty meter rope and I was soon shaking my head as the reality of the situation sunk in and I found myself unclipped my belay rig so we could simul. We gained the top without incident. I sat next to him, our feet hanging off the edge, saying not a word and instead, savoring the amazing panoramic view before us. I'd chew his ass later. But I coudn't bring myself to. We'd both been fools. We'd survived. There was more climbing to be done, hopefully distancing myself with each hand jam and smear, further and further away from the perils of novicedom. I'll never forget that day, as long as I live. It felt as true and adventure as any.
The belays on this route seem to have been re-engineered for the better since I last climbed it. P1 climbs past six bolts to a three bolt belay stance in a little hole. P2 climbs past five bolts to a nice ledge. We then did two double rope rappels down chain anchors to the right (climbers right) of the route.
We watched Peter Croft solo this route while we were on our way down. It was an appopriate way to meet a climbing legend.
just climbed this last weeked - along with the party next to me (who also commented on it while belaying a pitch next to this one)it was apparent that the distance between the first and second bolt was run out... I did't have a tape measure, however unless i am very mistaken if you slipped right before making the second clip you are going to hit the deck or come darn close to it! just a heads up if you arn't that sure footed. Also this was the hardest 5.7 i have climbed in the park. Happy climbing / Be Safe
Dont bother bringing nuts or cams. There is one spot that may take a nut but there is a bolt right next to it. Save yourself the trouble with weight its a fun climb go do it.
By Shiloh From: Phoenix, AZ Oct 30, 2006 rating: 5.8
I did this route on October 28th and led the second pitch. The first pitch was relatively easy going but the height on the second pitch makes you think. As I passed the second bolt...looking for the third I realized that I didn't go left to the anchors and had traveled about 40 feet out the wrong direction. I don't recommend this...LOL I had to solo from the second bolt to the top, all the while thinking hard about the amount of rope trailing behind me. Make sure you go left to the anchors or you will be wondering if your life insurance covers this type of activity...Dont bring stoppers they are unnecessary, there is only one spot that may take them and its bomber handholds and a mantle and voile...your there...
By Bill Olszewski From: San Marcos, CA Apr 8, 2007 rating: 5.7+
One of the best face climbs in JT - this IS traditional slab climbing! I've only done it as two pitches, just stay right of the bolted anchor on P2 and continue up the waterchute to the world's greatest belay ledge. Kick back in the "easy chair" and enjoy the view of Hidden Valley and the Wonderland. Bring several slings including a couple 4'ers for the corners of the zigzag first pitch.
I led the first pitch 2 years back and for those breaking in to friction climbing at the 5.7/5.8 level would recommend eyeballing it first before leading it or taking a beginner to follow it (due to the pendulum possibility).
It felt very technical on the first pitch and falling from almost any point is usually going to involve either hitting something (such as before 2nd bolt), or penduluming. To one who is not a comfortable 5.8 Josh slab leader the average bolt space on the first pitch is probably farther than one would like.
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Nov 8, 2007
By caughtinside From: Point Richmond, CA Nov 24, 2007 rating: 5.7+
Did it in two pitches. I guess I was off route, I led p2, climbed up past a couple bolts. Saw an anchor 20 feet directly left, opted to keep going up. Traversed left up higher to clip one more bolt before easy runout to the top. Good slabbin' fun.
Saddle Rocks
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