Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Here is the fun flake on "Spaghetti and Chilli" on...
Description
This route ascends the middle of the SW face of Cyclops Rock -- to the right and around the corner if you're facing the Eye from the road.
Start on a right-facing ramp that is separate from the main face and ascends from the ground -- your belayer can find a nice comfortable seat between the base of the ramp and the main wall (which is extremely undercut at this point). From the top of the ramp, a few fun moves get you around and over a large rounded flake that opens to the left. Finally, move slightly to the left and ascend juggy plates to a two-bolt anchor.
Single rope rappel or walk-off to the east.
Protection
Thin rack to around 2". Two-bolt anchor; can be backed up with a #2 camalot.
This is a fun climb. It can be top-roped if desired. Perhaps climb "The Eye" and rappel down "Spaghetti and Chili" and then top-rope it a few times for some quick climbing fun...
True, it's a fun finish. I climbed the route again recently at the end of a long day and was a little surprised -- I didn't remember the last few moves being quite so strenuous.
We attempted this route on Sun 3rd April 2005, and was attacked by a large crow while on the final finger crack finish. Had to be lowered and then rappel down for our gear.
The bird has a nest in the cave to the right of the last crack, and presumably has some young it is protecting.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca May 16, 2006 rating: 5.7
May 06, no bird problems. The steep lieback at the beginning is the crux, protected by a .4 camalot. The top exit crack is as Chris said, very fun. One or two bomber .75 camalots protect this move. Inbetween these, protection was somewhat sparse, despite what appearences might suggest. However, the climbing was super easy in that area. The addition of a bolt just after the grey patina area, where the holds are still big but dubious and a bit runout, would probably not be taken for granted by the beginner/novice leader. Rap off with a 60m rope or walk down the back side.
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