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Stealin 

5.11a

   

FA: 
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10c/d [details]
Views: 637 page views

Submitted By: susan peplow on Feb 6, 2007


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Chris Trudeau working the moves on Stealin


Description 

Climb obvious bolt line using sidepulls and good edges up steep wall and over roof. Roof is protected by two bolts.


Location 

First route to the left of Valentine's Day Arete


Protection 

5 bolts plus anchor



Photos of Stealin Slideshow Add Photo
Nature working the pink point

Nature working the pink point

Chris pulling the roof

Chris pulling the roof

Back in the day, before Jay had his professor beard. Photo by Hillary Davis. Trivia: this is a brand-new shirt I bought Jay the night before, after some thug broke into his truck (in my driveway!) and stole all his clothes.

Back in the day, before Jay had his professor bear...

John Bachar on Stealin. I think this was around September or October 2008. What a pleasure it was to climb with John and Paola. We really miss him.

John Bachar on Stealin. I think this was around Se...

John Bachar on Stealin.  Martial Arts pants rolled to the knees, ultra light biners, super light harness with belay loop cut off, chalk bag with lining ripped out, something red and Acopa Merlin shoes. It didn't matter if it was 5.6 or 5.12, always the same.

John Bachar on Stealin. Martial Arts pants rolled...


Comments on Stealin Add Comment
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By Braxton Norwood
From: Tucson
Feb 6, 2007
rating: 5.11-

Pumpy to the "room." Don't forget to clip the bolt above the "room" before departing it for the chains...

By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Oct 25, 2007
rating: 5.10c/d

fun route...if only the roof stayed in the grade.

By Gerry Cook
From: Tucson, Arizona
Oct 23, 2008
rating: 5.11a

Here is a YouTube video of a local climber leading this route Stealin

By Dave K
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 13, 2009

I love this route, and can't wait to do it again, but I find it hard to beleve that it's really 5.11a. After leading Community Service, a 10a, I feel like Stealin is more like a 10b... I mean, I'm stoked that I led it and all, but I'm not about to call myself an 11 leader. Stealin remains my hardest lead, and I'm stoked about having done it, but it feels easier than 11a to me.

That is all.

Kahler

By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Feb 13, 2009
rating: 5.11a

Damn you, people are always trying to downrate the handful of 11a climbs I've done :-)

Are the following also not 11a?

Steve's Arete - Hunchback Pinnacles
You Call It - The Ruins
Thunderbolts - Sky Valley
Mandatory Doug Testing - Murray Wall, Ravens
Myopic - Sun Spot Crags

Not that I'll listen to any of you, I can remain in denial forever... forever I tell ya!

By Jimbo
Feb 15, 2009

Not sure how anyone can think Stealin is only one letter grade harder than Community service??
Stealin always felt .11a to me.
Christian, all the other routes you listed are consensus .11a. So sleep well and don't dwell too much on numbers.

By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Feb 15, 2009
rating: 5.11a

Cool, now I can finally get some sleep hehe

By Chelsea Cook
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 23, 2009
rating: 5.10c/d

I agree that those other routes (the ones I've been on) are 11a, but Stealin' is definitely easier than 11a and you know that because if I can lead it, it must be easier! haha. But seriously, what i've noticed is that people who are better at that style of climbing think it's way easier, and people who excel at other styles of climbing find it more challenging. I could be wrong about this, but it's my theory based on what people tell me about what they think of it. It's a great climb, though, and by far one of my favorites on the mountain- just wish it was longer!

By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Mar 18, 2009
rating: 5.11a

Maybe without all the chalk marks it would be 11a? Who knows?

Anyway, if you can lead "Stealin" you can definitely lead the one directly left of it, which is undoubtedly a stellar (though also short) climb. Still stuck hangdogging that one myself.

By Chelsea Cook
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 8, 2009
rating: 5.10c/d

The one to the left is I've Been Robbed and I think it is significantly harder than Stealin! Good luck with it! I love that climb. I still need to get that one.