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Venus Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Venus Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Constipation Prize S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dirtigo S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Little Mermaid S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Mercury S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Mercury on a Halfshell S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Mountaineer's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Mowgli Grape S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Neptune S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Preppy's Crack S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Screamin' T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Shame on a Chippa S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Venus Envy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Venus on a Halfshell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Wimpy -Gilman Ridge, The S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

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Elevation:	812 ft	247 m
GPS:	43.80188, -71.8375 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Jay Knower on Oct 23, 2006
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Though technically part of Main Cliff, Venus Wall is far enough removed from Main Cliff proper that it feels like its own area.

The wall is steadily overhanging, and by some strange quirk of geology, almost every hold on the wall is a crimp. If you get frustrated with your feet skating on Main Cliff's smooth smears, or if you need a break from Waimea's weirdly technical sequences, then head to the Venus Wall for some good old-fashioned crimp tugging.

The climbing on the Venus Wall has been compared to the climbing at the Red River Gorge, both being pumpy and sustained. The catch? Venus Wall is about 40 feet tall. So, if you like enduro crimping, but don't have crazy endurance, then Venus Wall is your place.

Plus, a seasonal waterfall (The grade 4 ice climb Selsun Blue) adds to the ambiance of the area.

To the right of the falls, on both sides of an alcove, are some great easier routes whose names play off of Cannon classics.

Getting There

Venus Wall is eaily reached by following directions to the Main Cliff and traversing the cliff line left.

Alternately, walk down the road to the point where the Baker River is the closest to the roadside. Head uphill on a steep, direct trail. Upon reaching the cliff, turn left. After periods of rain (which is just about all the time in New Hampshire), look for the waterfall. Venus Wall is to the left.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Venus Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a 155 ● Dirtigo Sport
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a 213 ● The Wimpy -Gilman Ridge Sport
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a 131 ● Mowgli Grape Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 185 ● Preppy's Crack Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 127 ● Constipation Prize Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 134 ● Venus Envy Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 129 ● Venus on a Halfshell Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 7 ● Mercury on a Halfshell Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 9 ● Little Mermaid Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 20 ● Neptune Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a 6 ● Shame on a Chippa Sport