Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Venus Wall

New Hampshire > Rumney

Description

Though technically part of Main Cliff, Venus Wall is far enough removed from Main Cliff proper that it feels like its own area.

The wall is steadily overhanging, and by some strange quirk of geology, almost every hold on the wall is a crimp. If you get frustrated with your feet skating on Main Cliff's smooth smears, or if you need a break from Waimea's weirdly technical sequences, then head to the Venus Wall for some good old-fashioned crimp tugging.

The climbing on the Venus Wall has been compared to the climbing at the Red River Gorge, both being pumpy and sustained. The catch? Venus Wall is about 40 feet tall. So, if you like enduro crimping, but don't have crazy endurance, then Venus Wall is your place.

Plus, a seasonal waterfall (The grade 4 ice climb Selsun Blue) adds to the ambiance of the area.

To the right of the falls, on both sides of an alcove, are some great easier routes whose names play off of Cannon classics.

Getting There

Venus Wall is eaily reached by following directions to the Main Cliff and traversing the cliff line left.

Alternately, walk down the road to the point where the Baker River is the closest to the roadside. Head uphill on a steep, direct trail. Upon reaching the cliff, turn left. After periods of rain (which is just about all the time in New Hampshire), look for the waterfall. Venus Wall is to the left.

Routes from Left to Right

5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 2
Mercury
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 3
Mercury on a Halfshell
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 87
Venus on a Halfshell
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 5
Little Mermaid
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 11
Neptune
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 4
Shame on a Chippa
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 87
Venus Envy
Sport
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 91
Mowgli Grape
Sport
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 105
Dirtigo
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 3
Screamin'
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 84
Constipation Prize
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 129
Preppy's Crack
Sport
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 145
The Wimpy -Gilman Ridge
Sport
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 8
Mountaineer's Crack
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mercury
 2
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Mercury on a Halfshell
 3
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Venus on a Halfshell
 87
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Little Mermaid
 5
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Neptune
 11
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Shame on a Chippa
 4
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Venus Envy
 87
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Mowgli Grape
 91
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Sport
Dirtigo
 105
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Sport
Screamin'
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad
Constipation Prize
 84
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Preppy's Crack
 129
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
The Wimpy -Gilman Ridge
 145
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Sport
Mountaineer's Crack
 8
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

another overhead map... including the newer moderate routes in the gully to the right...
[Hide Photo] another overhead map... including the newer moderate routes in the gully to the right...
The routes on the left side of Venus Wall... All very fun...
[Hide Photo] The routes on the left side of Venus Wall... All very fun...
rachet working Venus
[Hide Photo] rachet working Venus
this is me on the day i sent Venus on a Halfshell
[Hide Photo] this is me on the day i sent Venus on a Halfshell
Venus Wall and the waterfall after a rainy evening. We have a lot of water here in New Hampshire.
[Hide Photo] Venus Wall and the waterfall after a rainy evening. We have a lot of water here in New Hampshire.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
[Hide Comment] Though I agree that the left (steep, hard) side of the cliff is the best part, I must note that on the right side of the waterfall, you will find a gully that is home to some great super moderates.... one of the best things about Rumney is that people take the time to clean and bolt true beginner climbs for folks to learn the basics and that gully is the place to be for people just starting out and maybe a little nervous about leading.... Mar 23, 2007
[Hide Comment] The top of this cliff can be easily accessed via a gully left of Neptune/Venus Nov 27, 2007