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Routes in Venus Wall

Constipation Prize S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirtigo S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Little Mermaid S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mercury S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mercury on a Halfshell S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mountaineer's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mowgli Grape S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Neptune S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Preppy's Crack S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Screamin' T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Shame on a Chippa S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Venus Envy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Venus on a Halfshell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wimpy -Gilman Ridge, The S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
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Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 232 total · 2/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 20, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

Wow there really is a crack there. I never saw it until I read about it.

Climb the handcrack laying back mostly. Scramble across the ledge to where you can see the crack running up a corner. Jam and chimney up the corner to a stance and climb the last few feet to the same anchor as Rainbow.

Location [Suggest Change]

Just to the right of the Wimpy-Gilman Ridge look for the nice crack through some dirty rock to the anchor of Rainbow.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Regular rack mostly hand size.

Photos

matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.4
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.4
Did this today and have a couple thoughts. Upper corner is actually pretty fun, but the start is terrible, and the rock is a little chossy. I popped a piece off while climbing, and so did the person who followed me. Not a highly recommended route but it was enjoyable.

I also owe a thank you to Tim Mijal for followed me up this :) Mar 28, 2011
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
I had a foot a little bigger than a golf ball break while I was pretty runout on this. Luckily my hands were good and I caught myself, and the rock didn't hit anyone below. Be really careful climbing routes like this! Also your rope runs over some sharp ledges getting lowered from this. I don't recommend it for anyone. Oct 12, 2013

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