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Routes in Venus Wall

Constipation Prize S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirtigo S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Little Mermaid S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mercury S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mercury on a Halfshell S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mountaineer's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mowgli Grape S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Neptune S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Preppy's Crack S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Screamin' T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Secret Agent S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Shame on a Chippa S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Venus Envy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Venus on a Halfshell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wimpy -Gilman Ridge, The S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 197 total, 2/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 20, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Wow there really is a crack there. I never saw it until I read about it.

Climb the handcrack laying back mostly. Scramble across the ledge to where you can see the crack running up a corner. Jam and chimney up the corner to a stance and climb the last few feet to the same anchor as Rainbow.

Location

Just to the right of the Wimpy-Gilman Ridge look for the nice crack through some dirty rock to the anchor of Rainbow.

Protection

Regular rack mostly hand size.

Photos

Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
I had a foot a little bigger than a golf ball break while I was pretty runout on this. Luckily my hands were good and I caught myself, and the rock didn't hit anyone below. Be really careful climbing routes like this! Also your rope runs over some sharp ledges getting lowered from this. I don't recommend it for anyone. Oct 12, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.4
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.4
Did this today and have a couple thoughts. Upper corner is actually pretty fun, but the start is terrible, and the rock is a little chossy. I popped a piece off while climbing, and so did the person who followed me. Not a highly recommended route but it was enjoyable.

I also owe a thank you to Tim Mijal for followed me up this :) Mar 28, 2011