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Routes in Venus Wall

Constipation Prize S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirtigo S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Little Mermaid S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mercury S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mercury on a Halfshell S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mountaineer's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mowgli Grape S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Neptune S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Preppy's Crack S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Screamin' T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Secret Agent S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Shame on a Chippa S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Venus Envy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Venus on a Halfshell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wimpy -Gilman Ridge, The S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Sport
FA: keith becconsoll 5/06
Page Views: 2,007 total · 15/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 19, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


61 Opinions

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Description

Starting at the base of Dirtigo, climb up an left to the arete at the right side of the dirty section of rock. Follow face holds up along the edge with a few comfortable stances. You eventually meet up with the original finish to Dirtigo and gain the quick clips.

The climbing is much like Dirtigo and not much harder, so if you can lead one you can likely lead the other.

Location

Just left of Dirtigo (5.3) is another line of bolts, this one following the arete.

Protection

Roughly the same number of bolts as Dirtigo to quick clips.

Photos

Jonathan Steitzer
West Lebanon, NH
  5.2
Jonathan Steitzer   West Lebanon, NH  
  5.2
Some notes:

  • Lower offs are fine. A little rusty but it's just cosmetic rust. Treat them as rap rings to use them. Absolutely no need to replace them.
  • Some of the bolts are behind ledges. Bring a couple short slings, or double up your quickdraws on them, or skip them to reduce rope drag.
  • This climb is excellent. Fun aesthetic climbing at the grade, traverse as low as possible left on the first 3 to really get the full value.
  • If Clip a Dee Doo Dah is a 5.3, this thing is a 5.2 max. It's steep, but dead easy with great feet and great hands. Literally a ladder.

Highly recommended for everyone. Jun 23, 2017
Lower offs definitely need to be replaced on this one. Someone has taped the gates shut, so its useful (safer) to go into direct, rethread and retie in, and then lower. Sep 30, 2014
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
I was on Mowgli Grape with my daughter on Saturday, and both of the biners on the quick clips at the top are broken. The gates have no spring action and just flip-flop. Because this is a route climbed by many beginners, it's good to know (in advance) what's going on with the anchors at the top. Jun 29, 2014
J Meagher
  5.2
J Meagher  
  5.2
The quick clips on this are getting pretty rusty as of august 2013. One of them no longer closes on its own and both have rust all over. I'll try to post a picture if I can. I understand this really isn't a priority route but it could use replacements Nov 13, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.2
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.2
The quick clips are rumored to be added by Richard Parker, he has been going around and updating anchors on routes he uses when he guides. I think its pretty cool of him to aknowledge that he puts wear into the anchors and fixes them. A big thanks to Richard. Aug 3, 2010
cjdrover
Watertown, MA
 
cjdrover   Watertown, MA
 
Hardware must have been updated in the last year - there are now quick clips on both anchors. Aug 2, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.2
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.2
This route is fun, but it does not have quick clips it just has glue-ins for the anchors ( to lower have the final climb traverse over to Dirtago's anchors and you can easily lower from there), and a bolt is place very weird as it is in a little concave facing the sky. also the is a bolt by the small bush on the way up, it is easily missed. But overall a fun route Jul 6, 2009