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Routes in Venus Wall

Constipation Prize S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirtigo S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Little Mermaid S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mercury S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mercury on a Halfshell S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mountaineer's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mowgli Grape S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Neptune S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Preppy's Crack S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Screamin' T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Secret Agent S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Shame on a Chippa S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Venus Envy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Venus on a Halfshell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wimpy -Gilman Ridge, The S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Sport
FA: Dave Jacobson and Scott Stevenson, 1990
Page Views: 7,450 total, 55/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 23, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


62 Opinions

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Description

Endurance crimping. Forty feet of climbing that feels like 80. No rests and no stopper moves. A looming redpoint crux. This is Venus on a Halfshell.

Stick clip the first bolt and crank a surprisingly hard move to get established on the wall. Continue through a roof, past a big hold that looks like it offers a decent rest. It doesn't. The crimps continue. A hard clip. Funny pockets that are really just crimps anyway. A big crimp that allows a shake. And the last hard move: a spock hold that feels oh so slipery when the strength is ebbing. A jug to clip the anchors. Lower down. Shake head. That was a great route, wasn't it?

Protection

5 bolts.
Elias M  
Was working this thing in the rain yesterday. The last move off the "spock crimp" feels by far the hardest move for me. Everything else went pretty smooth. Edited one of my attempts to show all the moves, unfortunately, the quality kinda sucks because of the rain and lighting.


youtu.be/MlcvPYdmfHQ Jul 26, 2016
has anyone been on this recently?? My gosh it feels hard! if you have been trying it let me know i would love to watch someone else on it! Jun 1, 2016
Christop F  
 
Originally I was doing the left hand till it broke. My send beta involved me going right hand and then matching the shark tooth which requires a little more finger strength. Sep 24, 2014
Christop F  
 
I finally completed it and after switching my beta a little i think it is still 12c. The hold is worse for sure but I do not think it requires the full push to a 12d. It is just a little stiffer. Sep 21, 2014
Daniel Reeves
Seattle, WA
Daniel Reeves   Seattle, WA
Move after the 3rd bolt is feeling like the crux for me too now... Clipping from below too to avoid the racing pumpclock. Such a fun route! Aug 22, 2014
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
I have been working this for the past few weeks and I never remember the third bolt being a big crux but that is where I keep getting shut down and one hanging now. I would love to know others input on whether this is upgraded to 12d or not. Aug 4, 2014
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12c
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.12c
I have to agree with Christop F. The second rail after the third bolt lost part of the crimp for your right hand. Both rails could be matched with the two hands and they were both alright before it broke.
You can see a fracture line on the right side of the second rail. I remember having enough room on the lip for four digits of my right hand and the next cross over move with my left hand way higher was the crux but it was not that difficult. I went on it this week end and there is only space for two digits on the lip. The other two digits cannot pull anymore which makes the crux way stiffer. Jul 14, 2014
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Yup, thanks to your RCA memberships and donations and lots of work by DQ and Chris. Some of those old bolts were in pretty sad shape on the inside. Jun 10, 2014
Christop F  
 
Fresh glue in bolts put in! Jun 10, 2014
jay davis
New Hampshire
  5.12c
jay davis   New Hampshire
  5.12c
Was it one of crimps to the left of the bolt above the roof (where the Neptune linkup meets Venus), or one of the holds near the next bolt? A friend and I were on it Sunday and didn't notice anything broken, and it felt about the same to me as it did two weeks ago (really hard). Oct 22, 2013
Christop F  
 
I got on Venus today and one of the crimps you move off of at the third clip broke. It must of happened over the weekend ( I was on it last week and it was fine) so now it's even more sustained and seems much harder at that section to me. Oct 21, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
kevin... i dont like the pocket either, i use a micro crimp right in the same area (a little above i think, like an inch)... ive never tried your beta but that wont surprise you at all :) Jan 10, 2012
Kevin Macartney
Laramie, WY
Kevin Macartney   Laramie, WY
I tried this route the other day for the first time and at the "redpoint crux" I didn't like the feel of the pocket so I used a crimp lower down and to the right a little that got rid of the long reach to the pocket but made the next move a long lock-off. Does anyone else use this or have ever tried it that way? Jan 9, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Lee aka Me, taking a burn on Venus... fell at the top due to numb fingers on this go, which sucks cause it was upper 50s that day!
i was happy to send on my next go...

youtube.com/watch?v=i6PWmXV… Oct 16, 2010
S. Neoh  
Setting up for the last move was VERY painful for me on the left ring and pinky fingers. So painful in fact that I abandoned all hope that I can ever redpoint this route. Great climbing up to there however. Pumpfest. Oct 14, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
repeated it today after 3 years without trying it... hasnt gotten any easier... that last move is harder for ME than anything on Neptune... Oct 14, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Nice I want to get on it soon! Oct 1, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I find this wall tough to climb in the cold months due to the fact that there arent any good rests for getting feeling back in the fingers... but on a freak warm day it shouldnt be bad and the ice fall should be avoidable...

the best month for this wall is probably october and... oh... look what month it is :) Oct 1, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Mostly. You have to be carefull of falling ice from the right though. Oct 1, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Does this route remain climbable during the winter months? Oct 1, 2010
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
great description jay! and geez this route looks hard! i wanna get on it but im kinda scared lol :) May 10, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
talk about a redpoint crux!... that last move is a tough one... i fell 4 times from the last move (over 3 days) before finally sending today... what a great route, a true test of endurance and technique... Aug 20, 2007
Ladd

  5.12c
Ladd    
  5.12c
Goodness gracious this climb is hard... May 13, 2007