All Locations > New Hampshire > Rumney > Venus Wall

Venus on a Halfshell

Name: Venus on a Halfshell
Rating: 3.7

5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British

Routes in Venus Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Constipation Prize S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dirtigo S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Little Mermaid S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Mercury S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Mercury on a Halfshell S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Mountaineer's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Mowgli Grape S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Neptune S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Preppy's Crack S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Screamin' T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Shame on a Chippa S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Venus Envy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Venus on a Halfshell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Wimpy -Gilman Ridge, The S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Sport
GPS:	43.80188, -71.8375
FA:	Dave Jacobson and Scott Stevenson, 1990
Page Views:	13,102 total · 55/month
Shared By:	Jay Knower on Oct 23, 2006
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

132 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description

Endurance crimping. Forty feet of climbing that feels like 80. No rests and no stopper moves. A looming redpoint crux. This is Venus on a Halfshell.

Stick clip the first bolt and crank a surprisingly hard move to get established on the wall. Continue through a roof, past a big hold that looks like it offers a decent rest. It doesn't. The crimps continue. A hard clip. Funny pockets that are really just crimps anyway. A big crimp that allows a shake. And the last hard move: a spock hold that feels oh so slipery when the strength is ebbing. A jug to clip the anchors. Lower down. Shake head. That was a great route, wasn't it?