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Routes in Venus Wall

Constipation Prize S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirtigo S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Little Mermaid S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mercury S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mercury on a Halfshell S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mountaineer's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mowgli Grape S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Neptune S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Preppy's Crack S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Screamin' T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Shame on a Chippa S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Venus Envy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Venus on a Halfshell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wimpy -Gilman Ridge, The S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
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Type: Sport
FA: Keith Becconsall 9/99
Page Views: 3,389 total · 24/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 19, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Another classic beginner route with fun moves and a cool line. The name is a plays on the classic Whitney-Gilman Ridge on Cannon Cliff. Though not as exposed, it does bare a slight resemblance to that route.

Follow the ridge from the mouth of the gully up and to the left to quick clip anchors. A new route has been added directly up to share the same anchor, if you top rope here please use draws so as not to wear out the quick clips. Also, due to the sharply angling nature of the route, it is best to clean the draws by seconding.


The wall on the right as you walk up in to the gully, you will see the bolts following the ridge up and right.


8 bolts to quick clips. As Ward Smith wrote in his guidebook "Be sure to clip all the bolts for an inexperienced second, as it trends to the left."
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
I didn't know it was possible to have a three star 5.3 sport route.

Bravo? I think? hahaha Mar 19, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Most of the moderate sport routes at Rumney are really quite fun... Mar 20, 2007
Definitely deserves the 3 stars! Very fun route, and great place to practice leading for us top ropers looking to gain experience. Aug 20, 2007
J Meagher
J Meagher  
Super fun easy climbing with great handholds all the way up. Probably the best route I have ever done under 5.7. Perfect for novice leaders, because at every bolt, there is a jug on the arete to clip from. Also, the fact that it shares an anchor with a 5.7 gives beginners a chance to get on something relatively hard without having to lead it. Definently worth doing. Nov 24, 2012
Looks steep for the grade; real climbing, then, instead of high-angle stumbling. Cool! Dec 22, 2013
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
A great line! A really fun route to introduce friends to climbing. The name alone deserves five stars. Aug 13, 2014
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
Too bad this doesn't go on for a 1,000 more feet. Nov 13, 2017

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