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Routes in Venus Wall

Constipation Prize S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirtigo S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Little Mermaid S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mercury S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mercury on a Halfshell S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mountaineer's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mowgli Grape S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Neptune S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Preppy's Crack S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Screamin' T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Secret Agent S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Shame on a Chippa S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Venus Envy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Venus on a Halfshell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wimpy -Gilman Ridge, The S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Justin Hayes
Page Views: 852 total, 11/month
Shared By: Emile Mennin on May 9, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

If you've sent Venus and aren't quite ready for Neptune, try this crimpy and pumpy link up. First done by Justin Hayes this is an endurance route.

Location

The Route climbs the first 4 bolts of Venus on a Halfshell, then traverses right and finishes on Shame on a Chippa (the Neptune finish too).

Protection

Quick-draws, usually fixed.

Photos

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M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Great, now we have 2 "Little Mermaids" and 2 "Cold Shoulders" at Rumney. How about something prosaic like "Hayes Linkup"?

I still wish Ward had left "Smoke Stack" at the New Wave as "Cold Shoulder" and just mentioned that Tim called it Cold Shoulder when he first did it as a trad route, to avoid confusion. It's the more often used name anyway. May 9, 2011
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
According to the old Rumney guide, this linkup is called "Little Mermaid", and is given 12d.

There is also "Secret Agent" (13a/b) that starts on Shame on a Chippa and finishes on Mercury. May 9, 2011