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Routes in Venus Wall

Constipation Prize S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirtigo S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Little Mermaid S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mercury S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mercury on a Halfshell S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mountaineer's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mowgli Grape S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Neptune S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Preppy's Crack S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Screamin' T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Secret Agent S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Shame on a Chippa S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Venus Envy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Venus on a Halfshell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wimpy -Gilman Ridge, The S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Sport
FA: John Mallery
Page Views: 3,594 total, 29/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 31, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Neptune is a popular linkup on the Venus wall, so popular that the routes that comprise its start and finish rarely get done. Start on the far left side of the wall and climb the first two bolts of Mercury (12d). Then, cut right and climb two bolts on Venus. Cut right again and finish on Shame on a Chippa (13c).

Endurance is the name of the game, as the crimps just keep coming. The similarities to Venus are striking, as Neptune has a hard start that leads to a sustained middle. Finally, a low percentage, redpoint crux awaits at the top. If you've ticked Venus and are looking for more of the same, then Neptune's the route for you.

Protection

Bolts. It's tough to clean because of its traversing nature.
Will McFarland
Lebanon, NH
  5.13a
Will McFarland   Lebanon, NH
  5.13a
Not sure what hold broke, but I don't have to dyno at 5'7" and it's still fairly easy for 13a. Quite pumpy though and definitely the best climb on the wall. Sep 12, 2017
comments on 8a.nu have shown that this guy hasn't changed in grade since the break. psyched to get on it in a week to see! Jul 3, 2013
stow  
Unfortunately the perfect little three finger incut RH crimp at the top deadpoint crux of Neptune (and Chippa) broke off Aug 25. Forensic analysis by the local rock doctors determine that it can't really be repaired since the hold is so small. The move has been done since the breakage short person's way (little harder) and tall way (reportedly quite a bit harder but doable). Sep 10, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
haha i actually thought about that beta too... maybe someday ill give it a go :) Oct 8, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
So, double dyno for the flash? ; ) Oct 5, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
PS. I go with my left hand at the big deadpoint crux... i tryed both ways and liked that better... I suggest trying both and seeing what you like better... Oct 5, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
thanks guys, those routes are high on the list but im not sure whats next... whatever seems fun at the time :) Sep 26, 2010
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Nice work Lee!! Sep 26, 2010
S. Neoh  
BIG congrats to you, Lee. NICE!
Predator or Dyno Soar next? :) Sep 26, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Sent today... very happy... killer line... a worthy route... Sep 26, 2010
chris deulen
Castle Rock
chris deulen   Castle Rock
Funny, amidst the crazy warm spell (80s in April) Sunday, I was wishing for a nice cool November day to aid my aching fingers on this thing. May 4, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I was gazing longingly up at this route the other day as I swung my ice tools... The top few moves are coated with thick ice and icicles hanging over in a threatening manner... sad... Dec 21, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Last December we got a freak warm spell after a cold November and we were climbing in T-shirts again... i want another warm spell so i can send this route... Nov 29, 2007