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Routes in Venus Wall

Constipation Prize S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirtigo S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Little Mermaid S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mercury S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mercury on a Halfshell S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mountaineer's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mowgli Grape S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Neptune S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Preppy's Crack S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Screamin' T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Shame on a Chippa S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Venus Envy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Venus on a Halfshell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wimpy -Gilman Ridge, The S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,828 total · 13/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 19, 2007 with updates from Ryan Loiselle
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A bit left of Pretty's Crack, follow bolts up a low-angle start past a tree to gain a steep cracked face higher up. A stiff (in my humble opinion) crux uses cracks and crimps to gain the anchor.

Worth doing but not classic by any means.

Location

As you walk in to the gully in front of you on the right side of the gully's chimney feature you will see a line of bolts roughly following a sharp arete. That's the one.

Protection

5 bolts to anchor.

Photos

matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.8
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.8
Has anyone done just the cracks to the right of this? the cracks shape a sort of diamond? looks fairly easy... Jul 25, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Was on this route today... both anchors are a bit loose the right one is sketchy in my opinion... Aug 7, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.8
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.8
thats good to know, i was planning on getting on it soon but i may wait a little while now.. Aug 7, 2009
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
Matt, drag a wrench up with you and crank it tighter :\ Aug 9, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.8
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.8
Good call if i get out there i will have to do that... Aug 9, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Might be a harder fix than that.... im not too worried about a nut that needs tightening. the right hand bolt is a little loose in the rock... th eleft seemed ok but might use a tightening Aug 9, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.8
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.8
This route is weird. If you follow the bolt line directly up the arete it is much harder than 5.8 and there is a sharp rock awaiting your butt if you whip of the crux. To keep it at 5.8 use the obvious flake to your right for a couple moves then surmount the bulge on decent holds. Not a memorable route. Aug 3, 2010
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.9
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.9
I agree with Matthew aboveĀ—it's not clear where this route goes. Near the top of the climb (ten-twelve feet to go), are you supposed to stay left and follow the bolt line, or, are you supposed to sink your fingers into that sweet crack that goes off right? If you stay left, you have to hang off the corner with your left arm on a pretty steep face (a bit committing for a 5.8), if you go right, the line seems a bit contrived because then you have to traverse back left again. This route reminds me of Schist Another Sport Climb on the New Wave. It could be a "gotcha!" climb. Jul 15, 2014
Nick,

I went off to the right & skipped the last bolt. You can clip that bolt after heading right but by the time you can, you're already 5' above it and can easily clip into the anchors.

As of 9/28/14, the second to last hanger is spinning. Sep 29, 2014
David Bates
Boston, Massachusetts
  5.8
David Bates   Boston, Massachusetts
  5.8
As per the comments above, the key fork in the road is at the flake. You can go R and then traverse left, but risk a swing if following; I went straight up and used a hold to L around the arete but felt harder than 5.8 Sep 25, 2017
Jp Arico
Plymouth
Jp Arico   Plymouth
I would recommend against climbing the crack to the right, as tempting it may be. I just ended up getting pumped out on some not so great holds and being unable to make the clip and falling about 8ft (my fault, belay was good). Don't risk the tweaked ankle like I did, I think the route is supposed to go left. Felt much harder than 5.8. May 25, 2018
Etha Williams
Somerville, MA
 
Etha Williams   Somerville, MA
 
Going right feels good until you realize you've moved past the last bolt and end up a couple feet to the right, and slightly above, your anchor... I protected the moves to the right with an ok cam (I think a .75?) right after moving right and a less stellar slung horn at the top, but I wouldn't recommend it. Feels about as sketchy as you can get on a single-pitch sport climb.

Just stay left :) The moves are committing for the grade, but the holds are good. Aug 5, 2018

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