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Constipation Prize

5.8+, Sport,  Avg: 2 from 127 votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire > Rumney > Venus Wall

Description

A bit left of Pretty's Crack, follow bolts up a low-angle start past a tree to gain a steep cracked face higher up. A stiff (in my humble opinion) crux uses cracks and crimps to gain the anchor.

Worth doing but not classic by any means.

Location

As you walk in to the gully in front of you on the right side of the gully's chimney feature you will see a line of bolts roughly following a sharp arete. That's the one.

Protection

5 bolts to anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

KLS reaching the top
[Hide Photo] KLS reaching the top
Dan climbing Constipation Prize
[Hide Photo] Dan climbing Constipation Prize
Going right, aka how to make a bolted Rumney moderate PG-13. Red line shows the sketchy route-finding I used, green line shows the better route-finding.
[Hide Photo] Going right, aka how to make a bolted Rumney moderate PG-13. Red line shows the sketchy route-finding I used, green line shows the better route-finding.
Constipation prize
[Hide Photo] Constipation prize
Good climb!
[Hide Photo] Good climb!
The finished route
[Hide Photo] The finished route
Getting to the finish.. like a frog
[Hide Photo] Getting to the finish.. like a frog

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Has anyone done just the cracks to the right of this? the cracks shape a sort of diamond? looks fairly easy... Jul 25, 2009
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Was on this route today... both anchors are a bit loose the right one is sketchy in my opinion... Aug 7, 2009
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
  5.8
[Hide Comment] thats good to know, i was planning on getting on it soon but i may wait a little while now.. Aug 7, 2009
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
[Hide Comment] Matt, drag a wrench up with you and crank it tighter :\ Aug 9, 2009
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Good call if i get out there i will have to do that... Aug 9, 2009
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Might be a harder fix than that.... im not too worried about a nut that needs tightening. the right hand bolt is a little loose in the rock... th eleft seemed ok but might use a tightening Aug 9, 2009
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
  5.8
[Hide Comment] This route is weird. If you follow the bolt line directly up the arete it is much harder than 5.8 and there is a sharp rock awaiting your butt if you whip of the crux. To keep it at 5.8 use the obvious flake to your right for a couple moves then surmount the bulge on decent holds. Not a memorable route. Aug 3, 2010
Nick Grant
Tamworth, NH
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I agree with the previous comment. It's not clear where this route goes. Near the top of the climb (ten-twelve feet to go), are you supposed to stay left and follow the bolt line, or, are you supposed to sink your fingers into that sweet crack that goes off right? If you stay left, you have to hang off the corner with your left arm on a pretty steep face (a bit committing for a 5.8), if you go right, the line seems a bit contrived because then you have to traverse back left again. Jul 15, 2014
[Hide Comment] Nick,

I went off to the right & skipped the last bolt. You can clip that bolt after heading right but by the time you can, you're already 5' above it and can easily clip into the anchors.

As of 9/28/14, the second to last hanger is spinning. Sep 29, 2014
David Bates
Boston, MA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] As per the comments above, the key fork in the road is at the flake. You can go R and then traverse left, but risk a swing if following; I went straight up and used a hold to L around the arete but felt harder than 5.8 Sep 25, 2017
Jp Arico
Plymouth
[Hide Comment] I would recommend against climbing the crack to the right, as tempting it may be. I just ended up getting pumped out on some not so great holds and being unable to make the clip and falling about 8ft (my fault, belay was good). Don't risk the tweaked ankle like I did, I think the route is supposed to go left. Felt much harder than 5.8. May 25, 2018
Etha Williams
Twentynine Palms, CA
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Going right feels good until you realize you've moved past the last bolt and end up a couple feet to the right, and slightly above, your anchor... I protected the moves to the right with an ok cam (I think a .75?) right after moving right and a less stellar slung horn at the top, but I wouldn't recommend it. Feels about as sketchy as you can get on a single-pitch sport climb.

Just stay left :) The moves are committing for the grade, but the holds are good. Aug 5, 2018