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Routes in Venus Wall
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Constipation Prize S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dirtigo S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Little Mermaid S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Mercury S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Mercury on a Halfshell S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Mountaineer's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Mowgli Grape S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Neptune S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Preppy's Crack S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Screamin' T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Shame on a Chippa S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Venus Envy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Venus on a Halfshell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Wimpy -Gilman Ridge, The S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Eric Mushial 9/99 |
| Page Views: | 2,143 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Sep 21, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Mercury is not a bad route at all, but it gets little attention due to its proximity to the classic Venus on a Halfshell (5.12c) just to the right, and the wealth of other classics at the same grade near by. However, I got on it while a friend worked Venus and I found it to be much like Venus but with a really hard crux.
Stick-clip the high 1st bolt (even with the second bolt on Venus). Climb the technical face on small crimps for 15 ft. to a hard move to gain a couple slopers. Move from here to jugs and clip the second bolt. The next section is a bit interesting beta-wise (seems like there are many options and none are easy). Basically I tried to use crimps and a side pull to gain a solid pocket and then the top. The anchor is over the top of the cliff and slightly to the right. I checked the guide book when I got home and it said, "Move left under the roof and come over the overlap (kneepad recommended)."
I heard rumor of a hold breaking on the top section making it harder. Please post if you have any info on this and weather the grade/beta has changed due to the alleged broken hold.
Stick-clip the high 1st bolt (even with the second bolt on Venus). Climb the technical face on small crimps for 15 ft. to a hard move to gain a couple slopers. Move from here to jugs and clip the second bolt. The next section is a bit interesting beta-wise (seems like there are many options and none are easy). Basically I tried to use crimps and a side pull to gain a solid pocket and then the top. The anchor is over the top of the cliff and slightly to the right. I checked the guide book when I got home and it said, "Move left under the roof and come over the overlap (kneepad recommended)."
I heard rumor of a hold breaking on the top section making it harder. Please post if you have any info on this and weather the grade/beta has changed due to the alleged broken hold.
Photos
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