Type: Sport, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Eric Mushial 9/99
Page Views: 1,542 total · 10/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 21, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Mercury is not a bad route at all, but it gets little attention due to its proximity to the classic Venus on a Halfshell (5.12c) just to the right, and the wealth of other classics at the same grade near by. However, I got on it while a friend worked Venus and I found it to be much like Venus but with a really hard crux.

Stick-clip the high 1st bolt (even with the second bolt on Venus). Climb the technical face on small crimps for 15 ft. to a hard move to gain a couple slopers. Move from here to jugs and clip the second bolt. The next section is a bit interesting beta-wise (seems like there are many options and none are easy). Basically I tried to use crimps and a side pull to gain a solid pocket and then the top. The anchor is over the top of the cliff and slightly to the right. I checked the guide book when I got home and it said, "Move left under the roof and come over the overlap (kneepad recommended)."

I heard rumor of a hold breaking on the top section making it harder. Please post if you have any info on this and weather the grade/beta has changed due to the alleged broken hold.

Location

The farthest left route on the cliff.

Protection

3 bolts to anchor. Stick-clip the first bolt for sure.

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