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Routes in Venus Wall

Constipation Prize S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirtigo S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Little Mermaid S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mercury S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mercury on a Halfshell S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mountaineer's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mowgli Grape S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Neptune S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Preppy's Crack S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Screamin' T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Secret Agent S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Shame on a Chippa S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Venus Envy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Venus on a Halfshell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wimpy -Gilman Ridge, The S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Eric Mushial 9/99
Page Views: 1,041 total · 8/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 21, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

You & This Route


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Description

Mercury is not a bad route at all, but it gets little attention due to its proximity to the classic Venus on a Halfshell (5.12c) just to the right, and the wealth of other classics at the same grade near by. However, I got on it while a friend worked Venus and I found it to be much like Venus but with a really hard crux.

Stick-clip the high 1st bolt (even with the second bolt on Venus). Climb the technical face on small crimps for 15 ft. to a hard move to gain a couple slopers. Move from here to jugs and clip the second bolt. The next section is a bit interesting beta-wise (seems like there are many options and none are easy). Basically I tried to use crimps and a side pull to gain a solid pocket and then the top. The anchor is over the top of the cliff and slightly to the right. I checked the guide book when I got home and it said, "Move left under the roof and come over the overlap (kneepad recommended)."

I heard rumor of a hold breaking on the top section making it harder. Please post if you have any info on this and weather the grade/beta has changed due to the alleged broken hold.

Location

The farthest left route on the cliff.

Protection

3 bolts to anchor. Stick-clip the first bolt for sure.

Photos

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lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
haha busted, I think I may have written that before I sent it however. I did break left and go through the roof on the send and I used the left kneebar. Now I really need to get back on it. Sep 11, 2017
Will McFarland
Lebanon, NH
Will McFarland   Lebanon, NH
Lee, unless you skirt left and go up and over the roof, then you'd probably have used the sidepull, also note that it is mentioned in your route description above ;-). I got on it this weekend and figured out the post break beta (which is probably the same as pre-break, just harder) and it is around V6/7, so probably rated hard 12d (similar difficulty to Soft Job) going straight up the bolt line. Not sure about the kneebar beta out left. I tried that but it wasn't that fun and it is way off the bolt line. Sep 11, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Hmm pretty sure I remember that hold and I don't think I used it. I will have to revisit the route sometime and see if I can figure out my own beta hahaha. Problem is there are still so many climbs I still need to do for a first time I never find time for hard repeats.

PS. Why is Rumney falling apart!?!? ::sad face:: Sep 7, 2017
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
 
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
 
I now understand why it seemed so hard when I tried it a couple of months ago.
There is definitely a section with very little to work with. Give us some feedback Will if you find something that make sense in the 12d range. Sep 6, 2017
Will McFarland
Lebanon, NH
Will McFarland   Lebanon, NH
A hold broke last year (thanks Tyson!), a right hand sidepull up and right of the last draw that was big, is now really small. No one has done it since to my knowledge. I tried it one day not knowing the hold was broken and it felt 13a-ish. I will get on it soon and try to send it. Sep 6, 2017
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I have to agree with his bomb for Bonehead Roof. That thing is just bad. But two stars for Mercury? Lee, I think you're too kind. Nov 1, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
haha, you guys say the sweetest things... Nov 1, 2007
Ladd    
Lee is on a mission to climb all the climbs at Rumney I believe. I think he likes climbing so much that he can't differentiate between a bad route and a good one.
Although he has given a bomb to 4 routes ...surely those are routes to avoid at all costs. Oct 31, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Lee, I think routes like this need people like you to love them. Oct 31, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i tried the guidebook beta... traversing left under the roof, getting a good kneebar and pulling over the roof on miserable crimps to gain the good pocket... it felt way easier to me but if you have more power at your disposal the first way might still be your ticket...

since figuring out my beta i really like this route and think it is well worth while and not a "pile" as folks will say... Oct 10, 2007

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