Nov 23, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. P1: <= 3” cams get to the anchor then will be able to see the bolts. Belay on a very nice big ledge
P2: follow the bolts up. About 14-16 bolts. It’s very long, I used the piton but created too mu ch rope drag. So I lowered down to unclipped those pitons. The crux is the slab part. About 4-5 bolts away. Tricky but finally found some foot can be trusted. There is another slab area is tricky above this crux but better than this one. Belay on a very safe ledge with big bushes.
P3: it is in front of where coming out from the P2! Is the only wall has bolts. A little tricky to step onto the wall as there is a little expose underneath. I created a sling on chicken head for the protection. Thought it was a short pitch from the route picture, but not! Another very long pitch about 110ft. Rope drag is also need to be pay attention. Surprised the top anchor is just on the wall. And if going descent by hiking you might need to climb above the anchor? Considering about safety I didn’t try that. Partner did not climb this pitch. I cleaned the pitch like sports climbing and partner lowered me down.
Descent: because I was lowered down from P3. So now we were at P2 belay station. There are three anchors there. We used the one on the right if facing down the exposed mountain. We used single line rappel with a tagline with a 70m rope. It’s not easy to rappel to the P1 belay station. So I went all the way to the Clouds anchor using half of our ropes. We tried to get our rope down by pulling the tagline but not working so I kept rappelling all the way down. The 70m tagline is about 20ft short to the ground. But the dynamic climbing rope can reach further. I’m a 110lbs person the rope is about 10ft short. But the down climb wasn’t bad. (It’s the beginning of our first pitch). My partner is a 230lbs person. He is able to be rappelled on the ground. But the rope seems easily get stuck on the rocks. We left our rope there for the night and decided to come back to retrieve another day.
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