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Routes in Black Wall (aka Happy Acres)

All that, Jazz T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cram It T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Geriatric Therapy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Greek Tragedy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Happy Acres T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mom & Apple Pie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mothers of Invention S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spontaneous Enjoyment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tres Hombres T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 5.8+ T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Randy Marsh & Pier Locatelli
Page Views: 2,753 total, 17/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Also known as "Todd's a God." Just to the left of the Cram It corner, follow a line of bolts up to the anchors.

Protection

Draws

Photos

davidhousky
Lake Forest, CA
  5.10a/b
davidhousky   Lake Forest, CA
  5.10a/b
Very thin, especially near the top as others have said. Considering how easy most of the 5.10a's are elsewhere in the park, I would personally put this at a 5.10b, but the moves aren't that bad with good shoes and a lot of trust. My friend had a foothold break off while he was on this - might've increased the difficulty. Dec 13, 2016
It's thin, but it's all there. Good footwork is necessary to keep it at the grade. Nov 29, 2014
MN norske
Henderson
  5.9+
MN norske   Henderson
  5.9+
I would put this climb 5.10(-) maybe at the very most. The crux is thin, but some good foot work will get you though. Sorry Mauzy, but I disagree bro. Oct 26, 2013
Matt Mauzy
Denver, CO
  5.10a
Matt Mauzy   Denver, CO
  5.10a
great crimpy climb. Last 2-3 bolts before the anchor is 5.10+ climbing. Super thin. Oct 14, 2013
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
As mentioned, this is "Todd's a God" in the Handren guide.
Great edging; the moves slowly become more difficult as you climb to the crux moves at the top, which are definitely harder than 5.9. Sep 30, 2008
Sweet route at 5.10a. Well worth the walk up, bring some gear for mother's day 10 feet right and make an evening of it. Thinnnnnn.... Jun 28, 2007
gilbert.2003
Burke, VA
  5.10a
gilbert.2003   Burke, VA
  5.10a
I agree that the top face climbing is a tad more difficult than the 5.9 rating implies. I would give it a 10a though nicely bolted. Apr 28, 2007
46and2
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10a
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10a
My wife and I both climbed this route and while most of the route would lie in the 5.9 range, we both felt the top of the route had two distinct sections of 5.10a climbing on thin moves. The route is very well protected so no worries going for it, have fun!! Also known as Todd's a God in the Guidebook. May 14, 2006