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Routes in Sweet Pain Wall

A-Cute Pain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gambler, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Glitter Grind Sister S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Glitter Gulch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lee Press On S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pain Relief S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pain in the Neck S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sister of Pain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slave to the Grind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sour Pain S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sweet Pain S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown New Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Don Bedford and Dan Haughelstine, 1991
Page Views: 12,423 total, 86/month
Shared By: EricD on Jan 19, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Begins on a ledge...first route on the left on this ledge. Sweet Pain is about 40' to the left. Big holds lead to the first bolt. After that, small holds get you to the second bolt. After the second bolt it's big holds, great feet and super-fun steepness.

Protection

6 bolts to chain anchors
Don Bedford  
 
This route was put up ground up by Don Bedford and Dan Haughelstine 1/1/1991 Feb 20, 2017
the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
 
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
 
Whatever the grade, this is a phenomenal warm-up for the rest of the wall. Nov 28, 2016
Sean Cooney  
 
I agree the crux is from bolt 1 to 2, but it is height dependent. I'm tall, so it felt easier. After that, I think the steepness and length justify 11a as an overall grade.

I think this is the type of route that either feels pretty easy for the grade or tough for the grade. If your endurance is good, it might feel more cruiser, but if your endurance is a bit lacking it would get pretty pumpy. Nov 9, 2016
Andrew G
Silver Spring, MD
  5.11a
Andrew G   Silver Spring, MD
  5.11a
One more vote for 10d/11a. I can see the case for the 11a based on the crux move getting to the 2nd bolt, but as a whole, the route felt a lot more like 10d. 11b is a joke.

Regardless of grade though, this is an absolutely stellar line. Feb 14, 2016
James Cranston
Boulder, CO
  5.10c/d
James Cranston   Boulder, CO
  5.10c/d
Really fun climb. All the moves are there and there are ample opportunities to shake out. Goes up a really aesthetic line. Sidepulling, lock offs, back steps. Pretty thoughtful movement considering how big the holds are. Definitely enjoyable, would recommend to everyone! The real physical crux on the route is just at the beginning, which is not hard once you figure out how to move through it but requires a sequence on less positive holds compared to the rest of the route, so don't let that discourage you from the route! Honestly one of my favorite rock climbs of all time and probably my favorite for the 10+/11- grade ever. Mar 15, 2015
Ben Broche
San Francisco, CA
5.11b
Ben Broche   San Francisco, CA
5.11b
Great route, interesting grade spread too - I'm of the opinion that this is solid at .11b if you're shorter. I did the all four left-hand routes at the crag yesterday (including a flash of Sweet Pain) and the move between the first and second bolt of "Glitter" off of that 1/4 pad crimp felt like hardest sequence I did at the wall, who really cares though, stellar route! Mar 11, 2015
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
 
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
 
Probably soft for grade, which is probably why it's my first 5.11 onsight. Regardless, sustained, pumpy jugs top to bottom make for my favorite sport route at Red Rock. Get this one and its neighbors. All stellar. The climbs on this wall are underrated IMO. May 26, 2014
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
On Jan 25th, 2014, the ASCA replaced the chain on this anchor with links and mussy hooks to facilitate cleaning and lowering. Jan 25, 2014
Weston L
Summerlin, NV
  5.11-
Weston L   Summerlin, NV
  5.11-
One of the bolts is sticking out of the stone a bit - not an extreme amount, but enough that when I was clipping it, I raised my eyebrow enough it was almost as pumped as my pathetic forearms were.


Also, fantastic climb on good rock with some committing moves if you are short. Jan 12, 2014
socalbolter
Silverado, CA
socalbolter   Silverado, CA
Spinner last bolt has been replaced. Jan 31, 2013
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.11a
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.11a
Love this climb! Great moves on great holds. Mar 18, 2011
NickinCO
colorado
  5.10d
NickinCO   colorado
  5.10d
10D/11A I agree... I didn't really feel there was a "crux" just consistent climbing. Mar 6, 2011
Colin Brochard
San Francisco
  5.10d
Colin Brochard   San Francisco
  5.10d
11a in the book, and pretty soft at that. Dec 9, 2010
My good friend got on this route as her first 5.11. I'd say it's not going to hurt anyone to let the grade stand as is. At 5'2", the crux was plenty hard for me. The climbing on this route is really pleasant, and it offers a nice break from the hot sun in the middle of the day. Feb 4, 2009
Gary Savage
Las Vegas, NV
 
Gary Savage   Las Vegas, NV
 
This one is 10D. There is only one hard move between the first and second bolt. The rest of the route is 10b. Feb 10, 2007