Sweet Pain Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in Sweet Pain Wall
|A-Cute Pain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Gambler, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Glitter Grind Sister S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Glitter Gulch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Lee Press On S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Pain Relief S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Pain in the Neck S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Sister of Pain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Slave to the Grind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Sour Pain S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Sweet Pain S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Unknown New Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|GPS:||36.156, -115.437 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||29,270 total, 174/month|
|Shared By:||Nicholas Gillman on Feb 20, 2004|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
DescriptionCharacterized by its swath of overhanging 5.11 climbing the Sweet Pain Wall is one of the gems of the second pullout and oh how sweet it is!. Though not as sheltered from the elements as its nearby cousin The Black Corridor afternoon shade makes for a pleasant outing year round (especially in the summer). Usually sought out for its stellar harder climbing more recent route development has opened the door to a handful of climbs easier than what one would historically find at Sweet Pain.
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
Getting ThereFor those familiar with the area
Approach as per The Black Corridor but when exiting out from the slick rock area past the puddle break left(away from the The Black Corridor). The Sweet Pain wall can be found on the left side of the first gully you come to when moving away from The Black Corridor.
For those unfamiliar with the area
From the second pullout parking lot you will head down the one and only trail. Due to erosion control concerns the lower portion or this trail changes from time to time however your aim is the same ... the gravelly wash at the bottom. Once you are in the wash you want to head straight back into the canyon(directly away from the parking lot). Making your way past a few boulders/bushes the wash will eventually tighten between a small boulder and a bush. Shortly after this the gravel turns sharply left you however will continue to go straight.
Directly ahead of you should be an area of smooth slick rock pocketed with small pools , which depending on the season may or may not have water in them. Scrambling through this area is the hardest part of the approach but isn't overly difficult. About half way through the slick rock you are presented with a five foot wall that has a puddle below it (which usually has water in it year round). Pulling up and over this wall will let you walk across the top of the formation and out of the slick rock.
You should now be in a fine sand wash covered in short desert bushes. Slightly out to your right you should see the top of a heavily varnished chalk covered wall this is The Black Corridor. Out to your left you should be able to see a vegetated gully that runs all the way to the top of the second pullout. Head directly to this gully. Once in the gully you will want to gravitate toward the left edge finding yourself scrambling uphill and through another series of bushes a short way before reaching the unmistakable heavily chalked Sweet Pain Wall. (15 min total)
Classic Climbing Routes at Sweet Pain Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season