Elevation: 4,122 ft
GPS: 36.15597, -115.43663
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Page Views: 87,312 total · 378/month
Shared By: Nicholas Gillman on Feb 20, 2004 · Updates
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Characterized by its swath of overhanging 5.11 climbing the Sweet Pain Wall is one of the gems of the second pullout and oh how sweet it is!. Though not as sheltered from the elements as its nearby cousin The Black Corridor afternoon shade makes for a pleasant outing year round (especially in the summer). Usually sought out for its stellar harder climbing more recent route development has opened the door to a handful of climbs easier than what one would historically find at Sweet Pain.

Getting There

About a 15 minute walk.

For those familiar with the area

Approach as per The Black Corridor but when exiting out from the slick rock area past the puddle break left(away from the The Black Corridor). The Sweet Pain wall can be found on the left side of the first gully you come to when moving away from The Black Corridor.

For those unfamiliar with the area

From the second pullout parking lot you'll head down the one and only trail. Due to erosion control concerns the lower portion or this trail changes from time to time however your aim is the same ... the gravelly wash at the bottom. Once you are in the wash you want to head straight back into the canyon(directly away from the parking lot). Making your way past a few boulders/bushes the wash will eventually tighten between a small boulder and a bush. Shortly after this the gravel turns sharply left you however will continue to go straight.

Directly ahead of you should be an area of smooth slick rock pocketed with small pools , which depending on the season may or may not have water in them. Scrambling through this area is the hardest part of the approach but isn't overly difficult. About half way through the slick rock you are presented with a five foot wall that has a puddle below it (which usually has water in it year round). Pulling up and over this wall will let you walk across the top of the formation and out of the slick rock.

You should now be in a fine sand wash covered in short desert bushes. Slightly out to your right you should see the top of a heavily varnished chalk covered wall this is The Black Corridor. Out to your left you should be able to see a vegetated gully that runs all the way to the top of the second pullout. Head directly to this gully. Once in the gully you'll want to gravitate toward the left edge finding yourself scrambling uphill and through another series of bushes a short way before reaching the unmistakable heavily chalked Sweet Pain Wall.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sweet Pain Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 162
Pain Relief
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 789
Glitter Gulch
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 341
The Gambler
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 342
The Grind
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 120
Sour Pain
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 220
Sister of Pain
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 493
Sweet Pain
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Glitter Grind Sister
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 30
Lee Press On
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pain Relief
 162
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Glitter Gulch
 789
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Gambler
 341
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
The Grind
 342
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Sour Pain
 120
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Sister of Pain
 220
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Sweet Pain
 493
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Glitter Grind Sister
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Lee Press On
 30
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
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