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Routes in Sweet Pain Wall

A-Cute Pain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gambler, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Glitter Grind Sister S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Glitter Gulch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lee Press On S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pain Relief S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pain in the Neck S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sister of Pain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slave to the Grind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sour Pain S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sweet Pain S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown New Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elevation: 4,122 ft
GPS: 36.156, -115.437 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 29,529 total, 176/month
Shared By: Nicholas Gillman on Feb 20, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

Description

Characterized by its swath of overhanging 5.11 climbing the Sweet Pain Wall is one of the gems of the second pullout and oh how sweet it is!. Though not as sheltered from the elements as its nearby cousin The Black Corridor afternoon shade makes for a pleasant outing year round (especially in the summer). Usually sought out for its stellar harder climbing more recent route development has opened the door to a handful of climbs easier than what one would historically find at Sweet Pain.
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Getting There

For those familiar with the area

Approach as per The Black Corridor but when exiting out from the slick rock area past the puddle break left(away from the The Black Corridor). The Sweet Pain wall can be found on the left side of the first gully you come to when moving away from The Black Corridor.

For those unfamiliar with the area

From the second pullout parking lot you will head down the one and only trail. Due to erosion control concerns the lower portion or this trail changes from time to time however your aim is the same ... the gravelly wash at the bottom. Once you are in the wash you want to head straight back into the canyon(directly away from the parking lot). Making your way past a few boulders/bushes the wash will eventually tighten between a small boulder and a bush. Shortly after this the gravel turns sharply left you however will continue to go straight.

Directly ahead of you should be an area of smooth slick rock pocketed with small pools , which depending on the season may or may not have water in them. Scrambling through this area is the hardest part of the approach but isn't overly difficult. About half way through the slick rock you are presented with a five foot wall that has a puddle below it (which usually has water in it year round). Pulling up and over this wall will let you walk across the top of the formation and out of the slick rock.

You should now be in a fine sand wash covered in short desert bushes. Slightly out to your right you should see the top of a heavily varnished chalk covered wall this is The Black Corridor. Out to your left you should be able to see a vegetated gully that runs all the way to the top of the second pullout. Head directly to this gully. Once in the gully you will want to gravitate toward the left edge finding yourself scrambling uphill and through another series of bushes a short way before reaching the unmistakable heavily chalked Sweet Pain Wall. (15 min total)

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sweet Pain Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pain Relief
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Glitter Gulch
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
The Gambler
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slave to the Grind
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sour Pain
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sister of Pain
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sweet Pain
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lee Press On
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pain Relief 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Glitter Gulch 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Gambler 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Slave to the Grind 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Sour Pain 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Sister of Pain 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Sweet Pain 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Lee Press On 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Sweet Pain Wall »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Nicholas Gillman
Las Vegas
Nicholas Gillman   Las Vegas
Added an updated high res beta pic (the max MP currently allows). Cheers.

Hopefully names for the two currently unknown routes at the far right end will surface and I will update the overlay accordingly. Jun 3, 2017
Nicholas Gillman
Las Vegas
Nicholas Gillman   Las Vegas
Added a high res beta pic (the max MP currently allows). Cheers. Jan 26, 2016
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
This is nice and shady when the rest of the 2nd pullout is in the sun in the afternoon. Apr 23, 2012

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